My 2001 ranger (3.0 V6, 140,000+ miles) cranks but won't start. Ran fine the day before, made several stops & didn't have any issue restarting. Here's what I've ruled out as potential culprits thus far: fuses, fuel pump, inertia switch, ignition coil pack, spark plugs & wires, starter (duh), and battery (duh).

I don't get any RPMs when cranking. After doing a spark test on the ignition coil pack, I'm baffled. On the old coils (motorcraft), I got spark on 1 & 2, but no spark on any others. On new coils (duralast), I got spark on 1 & 5 but not on the others. I also probed the switching signal wires on the coil pack connector, and got a blinking test light on all 3 (wasn't a rapid blinking however, unsure whether that's because I've worn down the battery a little or because the probe contact wasn't great or whether it's related to the main problem).

I used this troubleshooting guide (http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/...he-coil-pack-1) but I didn't get either of the two outcomes: 1) no spark on any coil (crankshaft sensor problem), or 2) no spark on certain coil pairs (coil pack problem).

Probably also worth noting that the check engine light had been going on/off intermittently for a while, but recently has stayed on. I never got it checked out because the truck kept running without issue, I don't drive much, and I'm broke & looking for work (same reason I'm trying to avoid taking it into a repair shop now).

Any ideas? Thanks much.

 

I would scan it and post codes here,,if your not seeing any RPM's while cranking makes me think maybe crank sensor,,, but scan for codes first before throwing parts at it,,,if you dont have a scanner autozone will scan for free if you can get it there or maybe they have one on their loan a tool plan

 

Oh you can buy a ELM scan tool on Amazon at reasonable price around 30 to 35 bucks and use your laptop or smart phone with a free download called Forscan,,,it works well

 

Hadn't realized Autozone loaned out scanners. thanks for the tip.

I got code P0304, and it stated a bunch of things: air leak in intake manifold, base engine mechanical problem/fuel delivery problem/ignition system problem that affects only cylinder 4, & misfire on 4.

Not sure how this affects starting - I had similar issue last year w/ misfiring but I was still able to start it up and drive it (though it ran terribly, obviously). I had the fuel injector replaced, and I replaced the spark plugs & plug wires, and that took care of the problem last year. It's not clear to me how this DTC relates to the lack of spark I got on the spark test either.

 

I had a similar problem. Drove the truck, ran fine, then parked it for 2 hrs. Came out to go and it cranked but wouldn't start. No CEL just no start. It was the crank position sensor, the magnet had fallen out of it and the computer did not know what position the crank was in to start. Replaced it and good to go.

 

Yeah that what i was thinking bad crank sensor,, but it is not throwing that code,,, would explain why no RPM'S while cranking,, but would hate for you to change it and it not be the trouble

 

I didn't throw a code. it's is easy to check if the magnet is still attached. The sensor is right on the front of the motor. stick a screwdriver by it, you'll know if the magnet is there.

 

I did some googling on the P0304 code and read that the P030x codes sometimes get thrown even though the problem isn't a misfire, etc. I saw that the crank sensor was cheap & easy to swap out so I did it. Still doesn't start. The battery is almost down to 10 volts now from running the scanner, but I still get no rpms. Though when I tried to start it after swapping out the crank sensor, it sounded like it was a lot closer to starting up than before.

I also erased the DTCs and tried starting it to see if it would kick me a different code, but it didn't give any codes. Gotta wait to get a jump & recharge the battery, see if that does any good.

I do live in upstate NY so my truck has a considerable amount of rust. What are the chances it's a bad ground? The one next to the engine fuse box looks ok. I figure there's probably more ground wires than that but I don't know where to look for them.

 

Ended up replacing the battery, it stopped taking a charge. Good news is that replacing the crank sensor resulted in getting RPMs. Bad news is it still doesn't start, and I don't get RPMs every time I try to crank it.

After cranking & getting rpms, I got a P0352 ignition coil problem. Putting the new coil pack on there (again) didn't change anything, so it would seem that the coils still aren't the issue. I cleared the code out and tried to crank again, still no go.

 

You said a fuel delivery code? Did you check your fuel pressure?

 

Haven't got any fuel-related codes. The most recent one was related to ignition coil. I did check the fuel pressure early on, and it's good.

Just read a bunch of old threads, and given everything I've observed, I'm thinking it's probably a PCM ground issue.

 

maybe a PCM problem period !

 

After pulling the PCM and not being able to visually detect any problems, I gave up and took it to my mechanic

It was indeed the PCM, needs to be replaced. At $700, the repair isn't worth it for me. Now to figure out how to get rid of it.

Thanks for the help y'all.

 

I got PCM at Flagship One Inc. 21 Ryder PL East Rockaway NY 11518 ,,, I had to give them all kinds of info but after that they built and tested the unit and it failed so they built me another one and express shipped it to me to make up for the failed test delay... I have had it for about a year with no problems at all and it has a lifetime warrenty I think.. Their prices are a lot cheaper than everyone I seen

 

If memory serves I think I gave about $160 for mine for a 1999 3.0 Ranger