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I recently had True Tracs installed in my F250, and I can say I no longer fear my 100 yard long driveway during big snowstorms :-) There is some sideslip on ice, but I am quickly learning to adjust my driving habits to minimize the effect. I now have a real 4x4 instead of a 2x2 with a marginally effective LS. Just my .02 worth...
Did you have both front and rears installed? How much did that cost, ballpark?
After I replace tires...I plan on doing a rear True Trac. The tires will happen before winter. Not sure how soon, or how long, it will be before the True Trac goes in.
Did you have both front and rears installed? How much did that cost, ballpark?
I did both - the front is an open diff so I figured I might as well give my truck a real advantage in traction for when I need it. I got both units from Summit racing for $1150.00, parts/labor to install was another $1400.00. That includes $400.00 for the master install kits (bearings, seals, crush sleeves etc.). It might seem like an expensive upgrade to some, but I plan on keeping this truck for a long time, and the reliability and increased capability makes it worthwhile to me.
I did both - the front is an open diff so I figured I might as well give my truck a real advantage in traction for when I need it.
I share the same thoughts...what a beast you have now.
I got both units from Summit racing for $1150.00, parts/labor to install was another $1400.00. That includes $400.00 for the master install kits (bearings, seals, crush sleeves etc.).
Kind of the range I was expecting. How the heck did you find a place that you'd trust to install them? I wouldn't do it myself...but when I've called a few places they either are clearly talking out of their a$$es or they just plain not interested in doing this type of work. I did find one place that's a couple hours away that clearly knew exactly what I was talking about, knew the things to watch out for installing it (at least it sounded like), could do the work whenever I decide to do it. They remove and install diffs daily. If they were local...hands down the place to go. Even 2.5 hours away...I'm guessing I'll end up there if I do it. They were great to talk to on the phone... no bull...just matter of fact business.
Thanks for the info... True Tracs will still be on hold until after pulling the horrible Conti's off. Only my first winter with them...and they are less than worthless. On the plus side...they make me go very slow and careful in anything but dry pavement...just like every FTE thread I read about them said they'd feel like.
How the heck did you find a place that you'd trust to install them? I wouldn't do it myself...but when I've called a few places they either are clearly talking out of their a$$es or they just plain not interested in doing this type of work. I did find one place that's a couple hours away that clearly knew exactly what I was talking about, knew the things to watch out for installing it (at least it sounded like), could do the work whenever I decide to do it. They remove and install diffs daily. If they were local...hands down the place to go. Even 2.5 hours away...I'm guessing I'll end up there if I do it. They were great to talk to on the phone... no bull...just matter of fact business.
Finding a reputable shop is kind of a crapshoot. If it were a less technical job I would have tried to do it myself, but then again I've always said I have just enough tools and knowledge to really screw things up.
Fortunately for me there is a local shop that specializes in 4x4 modifications, and like the outfit you called they swap diffs on a daily basis. Getting someone to check contact patterns and backlash who deals with that kind of thing was key for me. Good luck with your future upgrades.
I have an open diff on my 250SD also and am looking at installing a ls or locker differential. My question is why would you choose the tru-trac over the detroit lockers? If I read the add correctly the detroit lockers act as an open diff on corners and only lock when things start to slip.
Personally, I am very excited to hear about the Eaton eLocker and will be watching for them! They work the same as the ARB (true open or true locked), but use electricity rather than air for a much lower installed cost.
Exactly! Having the eLocker in the front and rear axles will be the bomb! No air pressure to worry about... quick and painless ON/OFF traction!
I have an open diff on my 250SD also and am looking at installing a ls or locker differential. My question is why would you choose the tru-trac over the detroit lockers? If I read the add correctly the detroit lockers act as an open diff on corners and only lock when things start to slip.
john
My understanding is the detroit locker will be locked up all the time until the driver lets off the accelerator, allowing the wheels to "slip" around corners. I guess it would really depend on what kind of driving you are doing as to what works best for your situation.
I looked at a number of alternatives before deciding on the True Trac - as mentioned above Eaton does not yet offer the e-locker for the Ford 10.5, and I did not want the additional expense or complication of the ARB air locker, so the choices were:
A) Detroit locker
B) A beefier/more robust LSD (like an Auburn or Detroit posi)
C) True trac
I do not need a locker for daily driving, just occasionally in winter and for some summer off-road trips, and I did not want something that would wear out (with clutches like the Auburn or Detroit posi). I like the idea of a gear driven LS that needs nothing more from me than an occasional application of brakes to bias the torque if a wheel is slipping.
Even if the e-locker had been available for my truck, I am not altogether sure I like the idea of more electrical stuff (solenoids) including wires that can break or short from flexing or whatever. The True Tracs will probably last me as long as I have the truck, assuming I don't drive it like a complete idiot, and I don't have to think about it. That said, what I wanted and ended up with may not work for everyone.
I have an open diff on my 250SD also and am looking at installing a ls or locker differential. My question is why would you choose the tru-trac over the detroit lockers? If I read the add correctly the detroit lockers act as an open diff on corners and only lock when things start to slip.
john
I would say it's a matter of cost, and personal taste regarding operation and/or smoothness of operation.
Originally Posted by From Detroit FAQ
When I step on and off the gas pedal, I hear the unit make a “clunking” noise. Why? Because Detroit Lockers have “backlash” or “slack” between the drive and driven teeth and you will hear this in everyday use going through corners and when going from drive mode to coast mode. Also with the vehicle on the ground and the transmission in neutral you will have 1\4 to 1\3rd of a turn of lash in the driveshaft, this is completely normal.
Can I run a Detroit Locker on the street?
Many people do use the Detroit Locker during everyday street use. The Detroit Locker is a very aggressive differential, so you will hear it and feel it everyday on the street. Eaton makes many applications for trucks that spend most of their lives on the road. (In the late 60’s, some Ford cars had the Detroit Locker as a factory option.)
A limited slip differential is smoother and that is likely why it would my choice. I think for my applications, it will cover 99% of my needs.
I have an open diff on my 250SD also and am looking at installing a ls or locker differential. My question is why would you choose the tru-trac over the detroit lockers? If I read the add correctly the detroit lockers act as an open diff on corners and only lock when things start to slip.
john
Think of it more like a Detroit locker is always locked and unlocks around corners. A locker that is unlocked until it slips isn't a locker, that's a limited slip. A Detroit will unlock when you are cornering, unless you're also applying the accelerator. It's kind of more like a spool that can unlock than a open diff that can lock.
So, reason for not having a Detroit Locker, any "on road" condition where there might be snow or ice, because two locked wheels don't forgive the traction and immediate loss of traction, then immediate traction you find in snow/ice conditions. And, when there is NO traction (ice) and both axles are locked you tend to slide sideways. Your drive axle(s) will be very "jumpy" while accelerating; whereas, a gear based limited slip (TruTrac) will be much smoother.
I know I didn't explain that very well, but but if you've ever driven a vehicle with a spool on the street it'd almost be like that. However, if you can get used to it's characteristics then it's not bad, it's just that most drivers won't drive better with it on the street, in adverse weather. They'll only drive better with it off road; unfortunately, it doesn't know if you're on road or off.
I have been reading for hours, I have a 2001 V-10 4X4 with 285/75 16s and 3.73 Non-LSD. It is the bad weather family hauler and I need some advice. I am looking for what would be the safest for driving, either to keep what is installed or upgrade. I want to be prepared for when driving and hit snow/ice patches or need to get "through the storm" and put it in 4H to make it to home from town. Most of the posts are for new trucks and the newer Diffs and they even seem to bounce around a bit for decisions. Is there any X owners that can give me some guidance? Thanks
Replaced the slipping factory LSD in my F250 w/a Detroit Tru-Trac & absolutely love it
I went w/a Tru-Trac because I pull a 5th-Wheel & wanted smooth operation that wouldn't act up while doing a hard low speed maneuver.
It operates very smoothly/quietly & operation has been tested more than once
I have a Detroit locker in my F350 and love it. It has the occasional clunk at stop and go driving but other thatn that i dont notice it, unless i slam the skinny pedal in the rain and let them rear tires ROAST😈 two winters so far with the locker and ive never slid or spun out on ice or snow, it doesnt "jerk" when taking off either..... I really dislike how people say the Detroit locker is jerky, noisy etc but they've never had one so how can you say its like that with no personal experience???
I hate to revive a dead thread, but I have a stock LS axle and wondering if it would be worth the trouble to swap it in. I’m not sure which set of gears is better, or the mileage on each axle, just looking to swap them across if the LS is worth the potential upgrade.
How about a little more info about your truck and what you are actually talking about swapping.
That is,
Does your truck currently have LS or you are wanting to ADD via the rear end swap?
Are both rear ends the same size? 10.25/10.5 Sterling?
both 10.25, just one is an open diff and my spare is an LS. Direct swap, just need an afternoon to swap the axles as a unit. The LS axle feels like there is less play in the gears when I rotate the pinion back and forth.