My son's 87 BII is having brake light issues. I checked the switch at the pedal and it worked part of the time; tilted it up and down to apply pressure. I went ahead and replaced the switch, no change. Tail lights are working fine otherwise. What am I missing?

 

Not sure, does this model have the sensor on the reservoir?

 

Also some models have a plug that fits into the brake armiture that hits the switch. These can crack and break. See if yours has this plug on it.

 

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 1


Fig. 1: Exploded view of the brake light switch


1. Lift the locking tab on the switch connector and disconnect the wiring.

2. Remove the hairpin retainer, slide the brake light switch, pushrod and nylon washer off of the pedal. Remove the washer, then the switch by sliding it up or down.


On some vehicles equipped with speed control, the spacer washer is replaced by the dump valve adapter washer.

3. To install the switch, position it so that the U-shaped side is nearest the pedal and directly over/under the pin.

4. Slide the switch up or down, trapping the master cylinder pushrod and bushing between the switch side plates.

5. Push the switch and pushrod assembly firmly towards the brake pedal arm. Assemble the outside white plastic washer to the pin and install the hairpin retainer.


Don't substitute any other type of retainer. Use only the Ford specified hairpin retainer.

6. Assemble the connector on the switch.

7. Check brake light operation.


Make sure that the brake light switch wiring has sufficient travel during a full pedal stroke.

 

You may also want to check the multi-function switch in the steering column and all associated electrical connections, fuses, grounds, etc. as the circuit feeds through the turn signal switch to the brake lights.

 

Thanx for the replies. After trying all that I could figure to try, I took it to the local mechanic. He replaced the inner spacer with a couple of washers. Works like a champ; He said the plastic spacer was worn to the point it would let the switch move on the arm causing a change of pressure on the spring loaded switch. Makes sense to me now that it's fixed.

 

I was about to say, those plastic spacers end up wearing out and sometimes you either have to find replacements or 'engineer' a fix. Glad to hear you got 'er done!