I tried to read the sticky on ignition, but it said that page is gone. I'm trying to help a friend get his 89 BII back in road ready condition to sell it. He bought it for his daughter, and then had to rebuild the transmission, and then it developed fuel issues. So, after a new in tank fuel pump, and a good scraping of the gunk out of the tank, and a new fuel filter we are trying to figure out why it is back firing out the exhaust under a load.
I am stumped. We checked all the vacuum lines with a propane torch, no leaks. (Just the propane, no fire...)

Idles great in park, rev's great in park and neutral. Put it under a load, and it starts popping back up the intake, and out the exhaust. Put it back in park, rev;s to the moon. As it is an EEC-IV set up, I am at a loss. The truck ran great before the fuel problems, and runs great now, until you put it under a load. I have snap on MODIS scan tool, and when we plugged it into hte data link on the truck, my scanner acted like it wasn't getting any info from the link. You could program teh info into the scan tool, but then it would just stop at the point of where it should start to go thru the process. Key off, key on, etc...
What do you think?

 

Really? Two days and nobody has anything?

 

Here's a list of things from the autozone troubleshooting guide:

1 Inspect Timing Chain Slipped Timing Chain.
2 Inspect Timing Set Slipped Timing Chain or Worn Timing Gear(s).
3 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors, or Vacuum Leak in Fuel Injection System.
4 Inspect Timing Specification Incorrect Ignition Timing.
5 Inspect PCV Valve Clogged Emission System.
6 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Distributor Cap Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
8 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, Damaged, or Broken Spark Plug(s).
9 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
10 Inspect Crankshaft Gear Worn Timing Gear(s).
11 Inspect Camshaft Gear Worn Timing Gear(s).
12 Inspect Distributor Cap and Rotor Kit Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
13 Inspect Valve Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.
14 Inspect Camshaft Worn Camshaft LOBE(s).
15 Inspect Valve Lifter WornValve Lifter(s).
16 Inspect Belt Incorrectly Routed, Adjusted(Tensioned), Missing or Worn Drive Belt(s).
17 Inspect Alternator Low or No Voltage OUTPUT From Alternator/Voltage Regulator.
18 Inspect Voltage Regulator Faulty, Shorted or Incorrectly Connected Voltage Regulator.
19 Inspect Relay - Charge Lamp Damaged or Faulty Charging Relay.

Now, given all that, I would check all of your ignition stuff, fuel system stuff (water in fuel, clogged filters, fouled injectors, etc.), timing chain and timing stuff (10*BTDC w/ SPOUT connector removed, engine warmed up), and check ALL of your engine/computer/starting system-related electrical grounds to ensure they are clean and tight, charging system, and battery. These things can be pretty particular about some things. Hope this helps you out (I didn't see your original post, or I would have replied already, sorry!).

 

Thank you for the reply.
on the list you showed me, we have already checked the timing chain, (Put a light on it to how quickly it stopped moving after you snap the throttle. It did really well.

We traced all the vacuum lines with a propane torch, found no leaks.
One plug wire was loose, once we put that back on it was better, but still not enough to drive.

The truck had a bad fuel pump due to crap in the tank, that was all replaced. We haven't pulled the spark plugs yet. It sat for over a year before we got to it. I'm kind of stumped on the timing thing as it has the TFI, VS a vacuum advance. And since it is in the rear, it is a real PITA to get to!!!

 

You should really look at the ignition components specifically, then. If nothing has been touched and it was parked for a year, I'd venture to say you may have some stuff that needs changing. I would consider really looking close at your vacuum lines and your fuel pressure regulator to see if the diaphragm is bad (wet with gas in the vac line going to it). Setting the timing isn't difficult. The SPOUT connector is on the passenger side of the engine within 6-9" of the distributor in the wiring harness. Once the engine is warm, shut it off, remove the SPOUT connector, fire it up, and check timing with a timing light like you normally would. There are several related tests that are in most Haynes or Chilton's manuals for these things. A lot more info is over on TRS in their tech library:

The Ranger Station - Technical Library

I re-read your post... I'm trying to figure out how you checked timing set wear and tear with the engine operational... since you have to remove the fan, clutch, accessory belts, harmonic balancer, and timing cover just to look at them

 

Oh, and I forgot, Equus/Innova makes 2 specific Diagnostic Code Readers for the OBD-I Fords. I have the one with the LCD numerical display. Cost $30-40. I'm sure you can find a used or new one for cheaper on eBay or online somewhere still.

 

With the engine running, you can check for sloppiness in the timing gear set with a timing light by snapping the throttle, and watching to see how long the marks take to settle down. It isn't an exact method, but serves the purpose. If the marks slide up and down the balancer before sitting still, it is indicative of a lot of play, whereas if the marks settle right away, it is more indicative of a tighter set up. I will look at the fuel pressure regulator and see if it is wet.

We aren't trying to 'maintain' this one, after pouring good money after bad, we are only trying to get it to run well enough to sell with a clear conscience.

Thanks again for the tips. I think probably it is more fuel related, rather than ignition, just because the truck was parked for a bad fuel pump and crap in the tank.
With the SPOUT disconnected, timing adjustments at the distributor are the same as a vehicle with a vacuum advance, correct?

Regarding the scan tool, would you say that my snap on tool's failure to read a code is more indicative of the tool not working properly, or the data link being dirty/failing to work?

 

You know, after I had made that remark, this hit me... same sorta tricks my uncles and my ex's stepdad would do... d'OH.

That's better than some I know would do!

No problem! I'd have to agree, but the fuel problem can lead to the ignition problems or other fuel-delivery problems that lead to the ignition problems.

Yes, spout disconnected is the same thing as timing a mechanical/vacuum advance electronic or points ignition, same principles apply. Your scan tool may not be compatible with the EEC-IV setup, or if it is, something is just not hooked up properly or there are connection issues or something.