When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm going to start on Lee's engine swap in his 93 F250 4x4 351 auto.
the donner engine is also a 351 from a 93 but has some different smog. I want just to pull one whole engine and drop one whole engine but not sher how to route the smog.
truck hoses go up over top to a valve setup.
The donor motor has the tidier setup IMO, drop that motor in just like it is and use the wiring harness on your truck.. it will plug right into everything on that motor.
P.S. The two smog systems function exactly the same they are just laid out differently... it's beyond me why Ford felt the need to create a different layout for the HD trucks versus the 1/2 tons.. which is what your donor motor is out of.
Yeah just cap one of them, looks like the F250 version has a pair of diverter valves instead of the single unit on the f150, it will still function the same.
The computer won't know regardless it has no sensors on this system just actuators, and since those two pipes are simply in parallel it won't matter which is capped.
I have another ? smog pumps? one smog pump as 2 holes (150) the other has 3 holes(250) both pumps have one hose that goes up to finder. thats easy.
the 250 had two hoses that went to the back and side of pump. the 150 engine has to hoes one that goes to back of pump, and the other goes up to finder.(I think but that the way hose wants to lay)
The engine will not turn over some thing is bound up trying to turn it over to put last of the converter nuts on it will not turn ether way, BIG bar nothing ! I put the other two nuts one before I tightened the trany up.
The engine will not turn over some thing is bound up trying to turn it over to put last of the converter nuts on it will not turn ether way, BIG bar nothing ! I put the other two nuts one before I tightened the trany up.
You either didn't have the TC in all the way to start with or you pulled it out to far when tightening two of them nuts before closing the block to bell housing gap all the way.
You likely did damage to the trans/pump, however loosening the bellhousing bolts and backing it off slightly, then rotating the motor by hand, may allow the TC to drop in fully.
All the bolts loose, un bolted the TC things turn like they should do I just tighten things up again?
Well ya gotta get the TC all the way in the trans then ya hope for the best.
The TC studs through the flywheel and the bell housing up to the block, and without the need to use the bolts to force it.
The tc should move freely during the process. While it won't back clear of the fw it will move back from it slightly with the bell housing / engine block gap fully closed.
Do not put any TC nuts on until then.
All you can do now is try it and hope for the best, that you did not damage the trans/pump.