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I've heard the .38 has more turbo noise then stock.(Whistle)
My wife drives our truck and I can't have anymore noise then what I have now.
With the VAN turbo is it more like stock turbo noise?
i went from e99 to e99 van turbo
i noticed just a little less whistle with the van turbo and the van turbo has a more mechanical sound then the stock turbo
If you tow fairly heavy, or run hot tunes, yes. The larger housing keeps the EGTs 100-200 deg cooler than the stocker at the top end. You MUST run tunes with this turbo though -- running stock fueling into it makes it VERY laggy. It's not too bad with tunes, but it definitely takes more fuel to spool it up. That holds true for any turbo with a larger housing.
I didn't notice much difference in noise over stock until I put the ATS housing on. It's quite a bit louder now. You can simply run a closed intake housing in place of the 6637 or similar open element to quiet that down, though. Personally, I like it right where it's at. I could get more if I added a WW, but I'm fine with it now. Plus, the stock wheel moves a little more air. Something I need...
i went from e99 to e99 van turbo
i noticed just a little less whistle with the van turbo and the van turbo has a more mechanical sound then the stock turbo
i went from e99 to e99 van turbo
i noticed just a little less whistle with the van turbo and the van turbo has a more mechanical sound then the stock turbo
Thanks for the feed back.
If I go with stage 2's and van turbo, stock housing hutch/harpoon and regulated return line will my wife notice a huge change in engine noise. (louder).
I have S+B cold air intake pulling from fender and a modified front cut to pull from headlight mount panel also, banks 3.5 exhuast out to back.
I don't think it flows more air than stock -- it just lets you use the upper end of your power band without EGTs skyrocketing because the little .84 stock exh housing becomes a restriction on the top end. I have mine configured with the stock wheel & ported ATS compressor housing. The jury is out about how it flows compared to stock, but as hard as I'm pushing it (35ish psi), there is no trace of surge, and my exhaust back pressure is about 1:1 with boost which is where you want to be.
Are you really seeing 1:1 ratio?? I am surprised to see such an efficient ratio on our turbos.
I am seeing very HIGH egt's with my turbo(15-1600 degrees at 75mph).. I guess I really need to search down a boost leak.
Are you really seeing 1:1 ratio?? I am surprised to see such an efficient ratio on our turbos.
I am seeing very HIGH egt's with my turbo(15-1600 degrees at 75mph).. I guess I really need to search down a boost leak.
Yep. I found out the back pressure sensor reads absolute pressure (pressure above barometric). So if you measure 50psi at ~35psi, you subtract 14.7 from it, and you have about 35psi back pressure. Which makes sense -- at idle & low boost, my EBPS shows about 15psi, and goes up from there...
And yeah, if you're getting 1500 degrees at 75, you either have a gross boost leak or a bad EGT sensor. How is your boost?
Yep. I found out the back pressure sensor reads absolute pressure (pressure above barometric). So if you measure 50psi at ~35psi, you subtract 14.7 from it, and you have about 35psi back pressure. Which makes sense -- at idle & low boost, my EBPS shows about 15psi, and goes up from there...
And yeah, if you're getting 1500 degrees at 75, you either have a gross boost leak or a bad EGT sensor. How is your boost?
That is from a dead stop. Drag race style.. The EGT's skyrocket at around 1100 degrees. It feels like the truck stops pulling as hard even though the speedo is climbing at the same rate. I got the 6.0 IC and it reduces restriction alot. I can hit 29-30PSI easy.
I have to shut it down at like 85mph b/c of heat. I got a water injection kit on the way too so hopefully that should help.
I used to see alot of smoke b/c of a boost leak on my lower pass. side IC boot. But that's tightened up and it's good to go. I built a boost leak detector but I could never get it to hold any boost. I guess I need to work alot harder on it.
I need to take a video of my gauges and see what everyone thinks. Thanks alot for the help izzy!
That still seems high. With my combo, I can bury the 1600 deg EGT gauge, but only after getting further up the RPM curve. Are your singles stage 1 or 2? Which rear diff do you have? At 70mph on 265s and my 3.73 diff, I'm at right around 2000 RPMs, and my EGTs set around 500ish. Sometimes lower, sometimes a little higher.
That still seems high. With my combo, I can bury the 1600 deg EGT gauge, but only after getting further up the RPM curve. Are your singles stage 1 or 2? Which rear diff do you have? At 70mph on 265s and my 3.73 diff, I'm at right around 2000 RPMs, and my EGTs set around 500ish. Sometimes lower, sometimes a little higher.
I have 4.10 gears. I see 700-800 at 2200rpm at 75-80 on the highway in 80E dp tunes. I have stage one casserlys.
I'm running 265s as well.
Egts are just fine when towing or regular driving. I just see really high egts in 120race when I really get on it.
I actually watched my egt on an onramp full throttle run(120r) and the temps climbed to about 1200 for about 5sec and then climbed to 1300 almost, and then up around 85-90mph they started to come down to 1150-1200 until I let off at 100+. It looked weird. I'm sure it had a lot to do with engine load but wow. It would be cool to datalog this stuff.
I have 4.10 gears. I see 700-800 at 2200rpm at 75-80 on the highway in 80E dp tunes. I have stage one casserlys.
I'm running 265s as well.
Egts are just fine when towing or regular driving. I just see really high egts in 120race when I really get on it.
That doesn't sound too outrageous then. With my stock sticks, van turbo, and 6.0L IC, I could barely get it to 1300, and that was standing on the pedal to over 100 MPH! With larger injectors, you'll get higher temps because of more fueling, but you'll also get more boost. As long as you don't keep it over 1300 for too long, everything will be okay.