Hey Guys, the local u-pull has a special on engines this week....$75. I am going to go and see what I can find. Anyone got any hints or tips on what I want to be looking for. I am hoping to get a decent 390, but what I would like from you is things to look/test for that would indicate a decent or bad engine. Anything would help. I am not looking for a running engine...just a good starting point for a build-up. Last week they had a couple of nice old trucks to select from, but they wanted $130 for the engines then...too steep for a junkyard piece in my opinion. BTW, what cars might have a 4v manifold for an FE on them? Also, what numbers on the crank indicate a 390 crank? And where are they located? Thanks a lot guys.

Chad Burns

 

Look for one with the hood still on the car if possible. Then you probably won't have a quarter inch of rust in the cylinders. I wouldn't use the manifold to determine which one to pull. You are basically looking for a block, crank, rods and heads in good rebuildable shape. 4bbl intakes go for about 10 bucks.

 

THIS is a LONG shot to say the least. First thing I would do Is look at every motor, before ever considering which may be easiest to rebuild. WHY? I would try to find the needle in the haystack so to speak, Look for cross bolts and/or screw in freeze plugs. If you find one with X-bolts, you are looking at a 427 or 406. If you find one with screw in freeze plugs then you got yourself a 427 my friend. If you find one with both then you probably got a 427 sideoiler. Side or top not much different unless you are road racing, about the only place side oiling is nessicary.

If you don't find either of these little trinketts then look for a somewhat rust free engine. Like said, one with the hood down. Take a piece of wire or coat hanger or dowel with you, to measure stroke, that is if you can get motor to turn at all. Other than looking for the impossible tryto find at least a good looking 390 and go from there.

One more thing you may need. If you have it don't forget to take the Steve Christ book. It will give you a quick reference for part numbers. If you are really looking for a 406 428 or a 428 or other exotic engine, then look at head castings. They will reveil alot more than just when it was designed. If it has a casting # for one of the exotic engines, even if the engine under the head isn't, it will be worth pulling the motor for. Chances are real good someone knew what they had and at one time built a sweet motor. MHO

Good luck

Scotty

 

I love Junk Yards! I think when I retire I'll start one just for ford trucks 1948 thru 1979. A complete FE engine that turns over, has no water in the oil pan and is in a truck is worth 75 bucks. I've seen people pay that for the right side exhaust manifold. If the engine still has a starter on it try to turn it over. I usually pull the heads, it's fun and I get a look at the innards and getting the block out without the heads on it is easier. Measure the bore and stroke to determine which crankshaft you have. Unless the engine has water in it or tossed a rod it is likely rebuildable. Besides even a set of decent heads will be worth 75 bucks. Hell I'd buy two at that price.
William in Atlanta

 

William is right about the exhaust manifold, I got quoted $50 for the driver side, (the only one I need). The guy said the passenger side goes for $100. I'm still looking into headers.....

 

There's nothing special about the C8AE driver's side manifold. It's the same one used on all full-size FE Fords from '68 up. Now the "T" manifold on the passenger side is another story.

Barry

 

Thanks, Barry.

I told the yard boys that I'd think about it before I spent $50 on the manifold. I'm still wrestling with the header question - do I? or not? So I have the luxury of shopping around.

 

Hey Chad:
How much time can you devote to determining the engine you want? My local yard runs the $75 yard motor as an everyday event (yea me). A couple of quickies for you. Learn how to de-code the vin, although the engine may not be original, it is a start place. Look for a motor with gunk on it, usually (I know, don't trust this) indicates an original. Pull the plugs and take a look at the burn conditions. Take the dowel or coat hanger so you can measure engine stroke (3.5" is 360, 3.75" is 390...), you will also want to homework these numbers out. I have no information about casting numbers on these for you. Make sure the engine will turn at the crank freely. This can be tough if the tranny is locked up somehow. It will take you approximately 2-4 hours to pull one of these bad boys, if the tranny is involved in any fashion. The exhaust manifold bolts are nasty and you will probably break a few off (been there, working on the repairs).

I have done two of these and the engines came out of trucks. Luckily the weather was nice and I had a free day...

--MG

 

Chad, Don't look for 390s in trucks, there are a few in there, but most or 360 or 352s, and you gotta measure the stroke to tell for sure. I don't think I would spend a lot of time looking for them exodic engines either.

 

Take along a list of VIN codes. Check them for what you want, then verify that is what is actually under the hood. Then you aren't checking stroke on every single engine, and still getting a good idea of what is there. For instance, if you come across a "m" vin code on a 1975 (390 4bbl), then you look under the hood and see a cast iron 4bbl intake, then you probably have a 390 or better. Verify by checking stroke.

I have some junkyard safaries soon, and after reading through this thread & thinking about everything, that is how I will do it.

By the way, are the engine codes the same for all makes in a given year? What about from year to year?