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I am going to flush the coolant and install a dieselsite coolant filter here pretty soon....the coolant i believe is off colored and has some crud floating in it and i am in fear for my oil cooler...i called the ford dealership about the flash and he strongly reccommended diagnostics before the flash...which is another 200 on top of the 140 or so for the flash...hopefully the diagnostics will find something but im hoping not to spend an arm and a leg. I am really on the fence but leaning to one side about a full delete on the egr...its a 2005 which i hear are a little less troublesome with the egr problems. Are there any negatives to the egr delete other than emmisions problems? I live in texas so there are no diesel emmisions testings that i know of.
The only thing you are going to find with a 05-up truck when you delete the EGR system the check engine light will be on. You will need to get a tuner to have them write a tune to tell the pcm not to look at t EGR.
I dont think there is any other way around that. If you are worried about it and want to replace the EGR cooler there is a company that has whats called a bullet proof EGR cooler, just make sure and rebuild the oil cooler at the same time.
I think all the 6.0's have egr issues. Its not a case of if, but a case of when. Not saying it will happen to you but I am not saying it wont either.
Well i plan on deleting it regardless, i was just wondering what sort of problems or symptoms i might be seeing. If i do delete it there will probably be a month or two gap between then and the time i can buy a tuner. With that being said will the truck run any different with the check engine light on? Also once i do get a tuner and get a tune that will get rid of this light, will the code still be picked up on a diagnostic scanner? I am not sure of the state inspection process on diesels in texas, i know there are no emmisions testing, but i am not sure about plugging in to the obd2.
Sounds like you have your mind made up on the delete, but consider this...the EGR cooler that Sarge mentioned and a coolant filter will cost you less money than a delete and a tuner, and you won't have to worry about passing any future emission testing that may come in to play down the road.
With the check engine light comes the limp mode. The turbo looks at EGR data to determine boost levels, so you may or may not have loss of power and poor running under load with the EGR "missing". Some 05's had 04 engines in them and they didnt look at EGR data, but if your truck was built after the 04 engines were used then you probably will have an issue.
Check on the passenger side valve cover to see the engine date, maybe drivers side cant remeber, and see if its an 04 or 05 engine. If its an 05 well you know you will most likely have issues.
It's an 04 engine but i really dont want a temp fix, i really guess i just need to take it in. I ran a pretty heavy dose of diesel clean in it for about 50_60 miles of freeway driving and probably 20 miles of city driving. This morning it started up really well, but same problem...while i was driving it when it was still cold i kind of paid more attention to some of the problems to hopefully better explain whats going on. At take-off it seems like there is no torque, it takes way too long to get up to speed and once it gets up around 3000 rpms, it not only smokes but starts to studder and vibrate and will eventually shift and same problems through the next gear. I am most likely going to be taking it in to ford for diagnostics but i was hoping there was a couple of 6.0 gurus around here that could guide me.
Should i take it in and just get diagnostics run or the injector balance test done? How should i go about this?
Depending on the inservice date of your truck, you may still be under warranty. An OASIS will give you the inservice date, call your local dealer service department and they should be able to tell you over the phone.
I will check the OASIS tomorrow with the local dealer. I have been doing quite a bit of research today, watched some videos of similar problems and read tons of tech files here and elsewhere and quite a few signs seem to be pointing to a foul or dirty injector/ injector wiring or a fuel pressure problem. I am not sure but both problems seem to be able to be detected by a diagnostic scanner. I also read up about some similar cases in which the solution was solved with a flash like embry suggested which, correct me if im wrong, i cant imagine would hurt the truck. Toreador_Diesel lives nearby and has offered to lend a helping hand, which is greatly appreciated. Any more ideas are welcome though...im still stuck with the problem for now.
problem worstened this morning...this morning it was a little cooler here than usual (40 tops...its texas) but i turned the key forward and left it forward for about a minute trying to give the glow plugs ample time to heat up, it turned over just fine and before it settled to normal idle rpm it died. I turned it off and turned it over again and it started up and ran fine. Same scenario today when i left work. I am going to check the FCIM with a voltmeter tomorrow hopefully just need somebody to turn the key for me. Does this sound like FCIM problems to anybody or something else?
With it being an 05 there may still be a warranty on the engine. Ditch the K&N and put a stock filter back on it. If the problem has anything to do with the turbo or maf sensor that k&n will probably void the warrant. It is one of the worst filters that you can put on a 6.0. JMHO.
i use valvoline premium blue and STP filters...and an oil change seems to have led me to my next problem...i had the oil changed today, it wasn't due but i thought what could it hurt. Dropped it off and when i came back the truck was still inside the shop. I started it and backed it out...before i got out of the shop door it studdered and died. Tried to restart and it turned over for about 15-20 seconds and started again. Now it will run for a little while and then just studder and die...happens at speeds from 2-50 mph engine cold and hot. The truck ran like a top all the way home once it was warm and the problem started as soon as the oil changed...looks like a trip to the tech...this sound farmiliar to anybody? I thought possibly the cam positioning sensor but it will restart afterwards. Its wierd that this started directly after the oil change...i dont much believe in coincidences.
I ran a code reader on it...it just an actron code reader but it says it reads all specific ford codes... im very frustrated with this and its starting to look like its gonna be an expensive fix