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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 08:45 AM
  #16  
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freesoul
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From: SE Pennsyltucky
My rear hatch will unlock with the key fob or doorpad but will not lock, I have to use the key and it is very difficult to turn. I guess I need to take the actuator out and perhaps clean and lube it?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 08:11 AM
  #17  
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From: Massanutten,VA
If you open the back hatch and listen , using the key chain remote do you hear the actuator when you press the lock and unlock with the remote? I could hear mine trying to lock and unlock but would not engage the locks. Pulled the handle off and the trim, the locking mechanism was not moving. sprayed it good with penatrating oil and moved the locking mechanism a couple of times back and forth and it freed up, hit it with some good lube and works great now. Also cleaned out the 8 years of dust(that gets in via the weep holes)with a small long handle brush and a shop vac
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #18  
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From: SE Pennsyltucky
update: I did a thorough cleaning yesterday and while I had the rear hatch open I put some 3 in 1 oil in there and let it sit. Works now
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #19  
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From: Massanutten,VA
Originally Posted by freesoul
update: I did a thorough cleaning yesterday and while I had the rear hatch open I put some 3 in 1 oil in there and let it sit. Works now
Glad you got it fixed for the price of a few drops of oil
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #20  
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I have not torn into mine - but I cannot figure out how the actual lock cylinder would not engage the mechanism. it simply turns but does not lock. Since I cannot get it locked, no idea what will unlock it.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:54 PM
  #21  
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From: Massanutten,VA
Originally Posted by jeeplj8
I have not torn into mine - but I cannot figure out how the actual lock cylinder would not engage the mechanism. it simply turns but does not lock. Since I cannot get it locked, no idea what will unlock it.
Once you open it up (take the trim off to expose the internel workings) you will see that if the lock mechanism is not free the bar going from the lock cylinder to the mechanism isn't doing anything, the bar doesn't have the strength to free the lock. You don't need to have the hatch open to access the internals.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 02:02 AM
  #22  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
well my dang hatch isnt working again!! worst of all the back is full of stuff and the key dont work either so i have know idea how im going to get it to open!!! i had a tall trashcontainer in the front on the floor and it was pushing the lockbutton, and now the drivers door dont work, the rear hatch dont work! and looks like the drivers rear door barley works!!!! grrrr!!!

i need to get this hatch open, anyone know how?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 02:35 AM
  #23  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
well i forced my way thru the stuff in the back and used my 25 torxx to pull that handle off then gorilla pulled the plastic surround off breaking some clips. oh well im getting really frustrated with these actuators.. so now im trying to undo my superglue and bolt i put in the actuator to get it apart from the last repair and fix it again and reinstall it, i think im gonna order a brand new one or 2 and replace them when they come in, but i need one now for the rear hatch as its a major pain to crawl thru the back full of junk.

well heres the actuator motor completely melted down inside, i think the tinfoil mod is a last ditch effort because if it goes again with the tinfoil its done for good it looks like! dang. oh well time to order a new one, but first im gonna try this aftermarket actuator i got laying around and see how it works out.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 02:00 PM
  #24  
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I just did the foil mod on the Ex a couple days ago...did all five actuators. I utilized a zip tie around the unit on the inside of wher the plug is and then came back and applied hot glue over all the broken tabs. It is easy to get back apart given you just cut the tie and melt the glue...I put the little motor top backwards and when put back into the door would lock on unlock command and unlock on lock command! Now I need to figure out how to get into the back window area and figure out why it won't open.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 02:04 PM
  #25  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
Originally Posted by bwguardian
I just did the foil mod on the Ex a couple days ago...did all five actuators. I utilized a zip tie around the unit on the inside of wher the plug is and then came back and applied hot glue over all the broken tabs. It is easy to get back apart given you just cut the tie and melt the glue...I put the little motor top backwards and when put back into the door would lock on unlock command and unlock on lock command! Now I need to figure out how to get into the back window area and figure out why it won't open.

if your switch gets played with or held on it will burn the motors windings out now like whathappened to mine last night. so youll be replacing them next time. no biggie as they all are clost to 200k in mine.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 02:17 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by b-uno
if your switch gets played with or held on it will burn the motors windings out now like whathappened to mine last night. so youll be replacing them next time. no biggie as they all are clost to 200k in mine.
I knew that going into it and told the wife to watch it. I see where guys have done this and they have lasted longer than the originals at this point. Being short on cash right now and knowing I can accomplish it alot faster now I am okay with it.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 03:32 AM
  #27  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
the only thing that makes me crazy is spending the money on new ones and not knowing if theyll last any better then the originals.. did ford fix them? maybe or maybe not, who knows.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #28  
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I may have to check into seeing if 1.) I can get a new resistor like the one that has failed...I live in the big town of Houston, Tx. and it might be possible to find one and just put it back the way it was meant to be rather thean the tin foil fix or 2.) see if the actuators in the newer trucks are the same and possibly more reliable.

I know when my fuel sender pickup assembly went south on the 2000 F350 everone told me a newer 6.0 would not work...know what, they were wrong. It took some modification but that was in the works anyways in getting rid of the mixing chamber and redirecting the return line. The arm on the sending unit just had to be adjusted a little differently but it has been working like a charm for a couple years.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 06:02 AM
  #29  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
well i put in the aftermarket actuator for now. works good, but noisy as all get out.. can really hear it working.. hehehe
 
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #30  
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From: Midwest
Originally Posted by b-uno
well i put in the aftermarket actuator for now. works good, but noisy as all get out.. can really hear it working.. hehehe

What aftermarket one did you get? Any links?

not too worried about it being noisy, if it works.
 
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