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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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bent push rods?

I have a 2000 E 250 5.4, I went through a puddle. the truck died, had it towed to my house and this is what i did, it wouldn't start it just clicked, i took the plugs out and checked them and found some were wet, and then with a small pry bar i got the fly wheel to move a little backwards, it then cranked a little then locked up again, What should my next step be. i'm quite capable when it comes to repairs just need some internal engine help, can i pull the valve cover and take a look or does the whole head have to come out,
 

Last edited by jason11; Mar 16, 2010 at 10:03 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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You don't have bent pushrods. You don't have straight pushrods either.

Sounds like you sucked water in and hydrolocked the engine. You may have bent con rods as a result.

Pull the aircleaner apart and see if there is water in there and in the throttle body and other intake areas.

If you have water there, and it sounds like you do as you have wet plugs, pull all the plugs and turn it over to get the water out of of it.

Bent con rods are going to mean a complete teardown and rebuild of the engine, if the block isn't damaged.

Got a shop manual for this vehicle/engine? You gonna diy?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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i pulled all the plugs, and everytime i free'd the fly wheel it would crank a few times then get stuck at one spot, why con rods and not a push rod or a valve?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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and when i got it to crank i got oil pressure, not sure if it matters?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:40 PM
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You familiar with OHC engines?

NEW OEM 97 - 03 FORD F150 5.4L F250 E150 ENGINE HEAD RH : eBay Motors (item 280463007165 end time Apr-09-10 22:18:18 PDT)

See any pushrods?

Your engine may be binding up due to a bent connecting rod.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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I assume you are cranking it with all the plugs out?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 08:00 AM
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yes plugs are out, I now realize there's no pushrods, buts it's funny cause on a ford parts diagram they were listed, so 85.... Is it worth me trying to repair this? Any tips on pulling the motor? It is a van, should I leave pull the body off? Would I have to replace every con rod or just the bad one? What about the rings? They were good before prob just leave em alone.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 12:14 AM
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Got to be a way to pull that engine w/o removing the body. Got a shop manual or even a Chiltons or Haynes or other fine brand?

Can you get the pan off--?

Once you tear into it, you'll know how bad off you are. You need not replace straight rods. Since it's apart, it would make sense to replace all the rings, as you're doing a rebuild anyway. You could have significant other damage as well.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Yes i think the pan will come off? I almost positive the problem is on the passenger side, those plugs were wet and thats where i here the clunk whn i get it cranking. will the pistons come out thru the bottom?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 10:32 PM
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Pistons won't come out the bottom. Pulling the pan suggestion was just to get a look at the rods and block.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jason11
I have a 2000 E 250 5.4, I went through a puddle. the truck died, had it towed to my house and this is what i did, it wouldn't start it just clicked, i took the plugs out and checked them and found some were wet, and then with a small pry bar i got the fly wheel to move a little backwards, it then cranked a little then locked up again, What should my next step be. i'm quite capable when it comes to repairs just need some internal engine help, can i pull the valve cover and take a look or does the whole head have to come out,


STOP! If you have comprehensive insurance the damage is covered by your ins. policy. Check your policy before you go any further with this.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 04:43 PM
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Really? Comprehensive would cover driver induced damage? I thought that was only for damage caused by external sources?

Regardless, In this day and age I've found it to be cheaper to pick up a known good engine than to rebuild.... Sad but true.
The keys to finding a bargain:
- Find out what years of block are compatible with yours.
- Search Craigslist for ANY Ford vehicle that may have used that engine in those years.
- What you're looking for is a vehicle that is being parted out, or had a fire, or was rolled or otherwise wrecked, or has a blown transmission... People are desperate to move these things...
- Inspect engine to assure valid donor.
- Make a low ball offer to take the heap off their hands.
- Part out anything else of any value.
- Haul the remaining carcass to junkyard.

Enjoy the savings!

I've scored donor engines for $200 this way...
 
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Yes comprehensive will cover damage caused by running into a deep puddle or even if you are using a boat ramp and go too deep. It's been discussed in these forums before. Now, if he put a hose into his intake to cause the damage that would be insurance fraud, but an accident is an accident and he needs to check with his agent or the ins. company. That's why we buy comprehensive insurance, it covers the unforseen like tree branches falling, vandalism, rocks through the windshield, hail and even deep puddles.
Check your policy.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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Moto Mel is correct. I know a guy with a Dodge Hemi who thought he had a "tough 4x4 truck", went through a puddle too fast, and the air box opening inside the wheel well (go figure) sucked water up and ruined the entire engine.

His comprehensive insurance covered it.
 
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