7.3 take off issue
Any advice would be Great !
Thanks,
Richard
It is interesting this 'feature' does not work with any of the tunes on my chip.
Since discovering this, now I ALWAYS start truck in 'stock' and only switch if/when I want mo power. FWIW, both my PSD's will have EOT gauges very soon!
I know mine were caked in junk, looked black when I pulled them out and cleaned them.
I know mine were caked in junk, looked black when I pulled them out and cleaned them.
Thanks,
Richard
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It is interesting this 'feature' does not work with any of the tunes on my chip.
Since discovering this, now I ALWAYS start truck in 'stock' and only switch if/when I want mo power. FWIW, both my PSD's will have EOT gauges very soon!Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
t-stat = Thermostat. That's usually at the junction of the upper hose to the intake manifiold. Again, it's in your manual.
BTW, you really shouldn't be flogging a diesel when it's ice cold. Diesels work off pressure and temperature. You can do a LOT of damage hitting it hard before it comes up to temp. Save that for the Soccer Mom mobile.
t-stat = Thermostat. That's usually at the junction of the upper hose to the intake manifiold. Again, it's in your manual.
BTW, you really shouldn't be flogging a diesel when it's ice cold. Diesels work off pressure and temperature. You can do a LOT of damage hitting it hard before it comes up to temp. Save that for the Soccer Mom mobile.

) is a great idea and so is upgrading the t-stat to a 203* unit from dieselsite.com (get the billet housing too!
) - BUT, ya may still need to spend $$ later to fix your problem.I said t-stat because the engine oil is heated (and cooled
- confused yet??) by the coolant and a failed t-stat can allow unobstructed flow to the radiator, so you'd be trying to warm all (8) gals of coolant instead of the couple gals or less in the block. In my trucks (w/203* t-stats), the coolant temp gauge in dash hits 'normal' range in about 2 miles driving easy in this 35-40* AM weather and is near the center of normal in well under 10 miles. Anyway, the computer uses EOT to determine many parameters including timing, and a 'cold' engine MAY perform the way you describe.I think you can find a copy of the manuals for your truck somewhere on this site, maybe the sticky in 7.3 section?
As soon as I get a minute, I'll go get another memory card for my anemic 'lil laptop so I can actually use the AWESOME Ford tech manual I finally installed. When I do, I'll look up your symptoms and post if someone doesn't beat me to it! (feel free!)
I wish I had bought the Autoenginuity years ago. BEST $339 I ever spent on my PSD's (thanks again Clay - Riffraff diesel!!!!) You only have to pay the stealership a couple times for 'diagnosis' to justify this expense, and with an AE and all yer helpful friends here at FTE - you NEVER have to go to the stealer again. IMO, there is very little you cannot DIY on your truck!!!
Meanwhile, maybe post in 7.3 section (more traffic down there!) and ask if there's anyone near you w/an AE. If I wuz closer, I'd hook you up in a heartbeat!!

Just to clarify... truck starts fine and appears to run fine after it does 'warm up', right? Btw, DA BUS is possibly misunderstanding 'flooring it' - the computer is limiting power, so flooring it is the equivalent of barely pressing the throttle - what he is reffering to is 'drive easy' until warm, no popping wheelies and laying rubber!! 'Warm' is actually EOT on these engines - I will have EOT gauges in both my trucks SOON, since EOT can lag behind coolant temp quite a bit depending on conditions...
Keep us posted!!!!!!!!!
195* or 192* This should answer all yer questions. http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=186
The stock housing is a POS and 'not reusable' according to Ford... Many rust out and leak!
Bob's billet piece is nice and should last several lifetimes.
I think I'm ordering up a stat and a billet housing right now.
This may positively affect Richard's issue right away.








