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Ok, I do not think it is a fuel problem - directly. The LAST thing I would do is drop the tank for this issue. Next to last would be throwing parts at it. Dropping the tank and doing the 'in-tank' and 'pre-pump mods' (do a search and/or read the 'common mods' sticky in the 7.3 section ) is a great idea and so is upgrading the t-stat to a 203* unit from dieselsite.com (get the billet housing too!) - BUT, ya may still need to spend $$ later to fix your problem.
I said t-stat because the engine oil is heated (and cooled - confused yet??) by the coolant and a failed t-stat can allow unobstructed flow to the radiator, so you'd be trying to warm all (8) gals of coolant instead of the couple gals or less in the block. In my trucks (w/203* t-stats), the coolant temp gauge in dash hits 'normal' range in about 2 miles driving easy in this 35-40* AM weather and is near the center of normal in well under 10 miles. Anyway, the computer uses EOT to determine many parameters including timing, and a 'cold' engine MAY perform the way you describe.
I think you can find a copy of the manuals for your truck somewhere on this site, maybe the sticky in 7.3 section?
As soon as I get a minute, I'll go get another memory card for my anemic 'lil laptop so I can actually use the AWESOME Ford tech manual I finally installed. When I do, I'll look up your symptoms and post if someone doesn't beat me to it! (feel free!)
I wish I had bought the Autoenginuity years ago. BEST $339 I ever spent on my PSD's (thanks again Clay - Riffraff diesel!!!!) You only have to pay the stealership a couple times for 'diagnosis' to justify this expense, and with an AE and all yer helpful friends here at FTE - you NEVER have to go to the stealer again. IMO, there is very little you cannot DIY on your truck!!!
Meanwhile, maybe post in 7.3 section (more traffic down there!) and ask if there's anyone near you w/an AE. If I wuz closer, I'd hook you up in a heartbeat!!
Just to clarify... truck starts fine and appears to run fine after it does 'warm up', right? Btw, DA BUS is possibly misunderstanding 'flooring it' - the computer is limiting power, so flooring it is the equivalent of barely pressing the throttle - what he is reffering to is 'drive easy' until warm, no popping wheelies and laying rubber!! 'Warm' is actually EOT on these engines - I will have EOT gauges in both my trucks SOON, since EOT can lag behind coolant temp quite a bit depending on conditions...
Keep us posted!!!!!!!!!
Just placed My order for the 203* Thermostat & the billet housing You talked about.3 days for shipping.Will give update as soon as I try it out.
Put in the new 203* thermostat and the billet aluminum housing.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP.
PROBLEM TAKEN CARE OF.
THANKS FOR THE WEBSITE OF dIESELSITE.COM
THANKS AGAIN SkySkiJason.I only changed the oil/filter,Fuel filter,cleaned out the tube to the back pressure sensor and replaced that sensor also.
After talking to 2 Ford dealers and 3 diesel websites and many emails from 2 diesel websites, I found this site and You helped Me out SkySkiJason.Do not have to spend and more time or $ to figure out My take off issue.
Put in the new 203* thermostat and the billet aluminum housing.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP.
PROBLEM TAKEN CARE OF.
THANKS FOR THE WEBSITE OF dIESELSITE.COM
Richard Chamberlin
Which model year Excursion do you have? What does your coolant gauge look like now? Did the needle move at all?
BTW, are you the REAL "Richard Chamberlin?" I love your movies MAN!!!
The 2000 Limited.Gage is dash still looks the same. I do not have the issue I had before.Needle did not go any farther than before the change.Not sure how to tell if You have an air pocket after change.Heat gets so hot You do not want to hold hand in front of vent.Ford dealer said if You have heat,no air pocket.My plug under the thermastate is biger than 1/4 and smaller than a 3/8 ratchet,was not able to take plug out.Seems like it should warm up faster.
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