Bought this about 2 weeks ago. 116K mi. ran fine for a week and then I started experiencing stalling when coming to a stop. After some research I replaced idle control valve, cleaned air mass meter and cleaned throttle plate. Funny when I removed ICV there was no gasket and there was not one with new part thus problem continued. I determined there should have been a gasket, went back to store got one from different box and installed one. Problem solved, no stalling for 3 days of short drives. Approx 25mi. now stalling is back. I also have another problem and not sure if they are related. Prior to all this the power door locks locked when truck was started and opened when I shut truck off. Now all of a sudden they do not lock while driving and they lock 1-2 minutes AFTER I shut truck off. Any help greatly appreciated. !!

 

Welcome to FTE.

The stall could be caued by a number of things, so we'll need some more clues to make a better guess.

Is it still stalling just when coming to a stop????

Any driveability problems????

Do you have a CEL lit????

Is this an auto tranny 4.0L????

Where is the vehicle on all past & present due scheduled maintenance items????

Have you replaced the fuel filter & or done a KOEO & KOER fuel presure & pressure leak down test test yet????

 

Is it still stalling just when coming to a stop???? yes only when coming to a stop, if throw clutch in and tap gas pedal I can sometimes catch it and then it will be fine

Any driveability problems???? none, great acceleration very smooth

Do you have a CEL lit???? no lights

Is this an auto tranny 4.0L???? 5 speed standard

Where is the vehicle on all past & present due scheduled maintenance items???? just had oil change and new plugs installed

Have you replaced the <nobr style="color: darkgreen; font-weight: normal; font-size: 100%; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;" id="itxt_nobr_4_0">fuel</nobr> filter & or done a KOEO & KOER fuel presure & pressure leak down test test yet???? no I somewhat assume it is not a fuel problem where it starts instantly and runs great, only symptom is when coming to a stop

thanks for the follow up

 

OK, good feedabck.

Well you could have a faulty aftermarket IAC, it happens!!!!

 

Do you think the issue with locks is shear co-incidence? I looked at haynes manual and it appears they are electrical and maybe controlled by computer? I was thinking about disconnecting neg cable to reset. Will disconnect for 15 minutes reset?

 

Yes disconnecting the B- cable will wipe the computers KAM memory.

Then it'll need to relearn it's new cold & warm idle strategy & it'll also begin to build new fuel trim tables.

The locks are controlled through the GEM, mounted in cabin, on the fire wall, behind the radio.

Does the vehicle have any aftermarket electronics, like an anti-theft system, ect????

 

I believe the security system is factory. Now to throw a wrench (no pun intended). whereas it worked perfectly and immediatley upon installing the IAC gasket and then the problem began after 20 miles of driving could it be that the problem is with the computer? Not sure how it takes to re-adjust.

 

Well without any trouble codes, we're sorta taking guesses without the help of any clues. so the door lock thing may be related & maybe not.

Seeing as how it's a 95, maybe have a close look at All of the battery to engine & body ground points & make sure they are clean, bright & tight, as funky gound loops can cause all sorts of strange happenings.

Seeing as how things seemed to straighten out after the IAC was last messed with, why not also have another look in that area.

 

Pulled neg cable again cleaned up real well. Pulled IAC and re-installed. Cleaned up throttle plate again, nice and shiny no build up, left cable off for 30 minutes to re-set computer. Locks back to normal, stalling still an issue

 

OK, so the lock acting out thing may have been related to a voltage drop, from a less than optimum battery cable connection, but the stall at idle problem is still there.

Seeing as how you don't have a CEL lit, to offer up some trouble shooting clues, & you know that replacing the IAC & having it seal well did fix the idle stall problem for 3 days, maybe suspect "Murpheys Law" is messing with you & the new IAC is bad????

I've seen bad new parts right out of the box!!!!

If you could come by a scantool that will read PID's, you could monitor the IAC ref voltage & it's PID signal back to the computer, when the engine wants to stall & maybe get a clue as to whats happening.

If you have a multimeter, you could back probe the IAC electrical connector, to make sure it's ref voltage is within range.
Do a forum search, or look in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum for some IAC test ideas & guidence.

I'd also make sure all the engine & body ground connections are clean & tight & that the alternator & battery ouput are up to spec.

More thoughts for pondering.

Let us know what you find.

 

I was lost in the discussion about the power door locks...Did you ever replace the Idle Air Control valve? I have a post on here about stalling and rough running 1986 Ranger 2.3L EFI gas, anytime,not necessarily in the morning, but starting the engine, it would fire right up,then after 35-40 seconds, it would stall out. I removed my original 24 year old IACV. took some carb cleaner and cleaned out the plunger and the two ports,and I'm still having stalling problems. I know I could replace the PCV, EGR, IACV, Fuel pressure regulator,bla bla bla, and not ever fix this problem. I removed the FPR hose from the vacuum tree on top of the manifold,and I did smell some fuel,so does that mean it could be the FPR? I have no stinkin' gauges or torque wrenches to R&R this FPR,and still have to remove the upper intake manifold and three screws holding the FPR from the fuel rail manifold. Some say I could manually tightened it,but not sure.

Just wanted to know before i go down and plop 60.00 on a new IACV. This is 24 years old and never been replaced, just cleaned. Thanks!

 

Yes replaced idle control valve. Immediatly stalling stopped and re-surfaced after driving the truck 20 mi (short distances). Mine runs great just stalls when I come to a stop.

 

Thanks small enginedude,
Lot of people telling lots of things that could be wrong. So yours only stalls when at stops..mine too, and that's frustrating. I do not have an open checkbook for the whole engine repair, since this is a 24 year old truck. I might go buy a IACV and cross my fingers,better that than to take it to a shop and have them charge me 100.00 to tell me that's the problem,then labor to replace it, when i can do that. Thanks, and good luck!

 

Well I believe I know the cause. I had it in shop today and they scanned it and checked pressures. All looked well but throttle screw needed minor adjustment. Truck did not stall but when coming to a stop, it would for a minute begin to stall but catch itself. So what is the problem you ask? I can tell you it has to do with low fuel and I am hoping an expert can tell me what it is. I will explain in detail:

I bought truck ( from a mechanic) and it had a full tank. What a nice guy I thought! Well after 4 days and when tank got down to a 1/4 it began to act as it currently is now. Thus I tried to adjust the throttle screw which I now know is a no-no (because when I removed air hose to clean throttle plate there is a sticker on the throttle body) saying NOT to adjust, maybe it should more visible. So now I make matters worse and trouble shoot to needing an IAC. But when I put on new IAC it is the same. I now realize it needs a gasket (bear in mind tank is now approaching empty) On the way to pick up gasket I fuel up but it still stalls because it needs a gasket. I replace gasket and problem is solved, truck runs perfect. However I still have close to a half tank of gas. Now I drive the 20 miles I describe and gas is down below a 1/4, starts stalling again. So today while shop has it it is below 1/4 tank the whole time. They get it to exactly where it was when it was feeling like it wanted to stall and I adjusted throttle screw.. I drive for 5 miles experiencing the 'wanting to stall but not stalling" I gas up and it runs great RPM's stay just under 1K when I come to a stop. I do not know what exactly is in the tank but I am thinking it has something to do with a float because when stopping gas would slosh to back of tank or fuel pump is overheating when fuel is low. Would love to hear from the pro's. Hope this makes sense.

Thanks!!!

 

Smallengineguy -
Nothing makes sense to me on these trucks. They have to learn to play the same tune with all it's instruments, if you will. it takes one sour note and the song is ruined. That said, I removed my IACV once more and did another thorough cleaning using carb cleaner,let it dry, once turning over,it would want to die again,then really really try to catch up, but ultimately stalls.

So this time I hammered the gas to high idle for about ten minutes,then it pretty much held it's own. Drove to the mail box down the street and it ran fine. The true test would be to take it out on the freeway,if I would be so bold. So basically, when it's cold, it stalls,but when I warm it up, it appears to be ok, BUT..I STILL WANT TO GET TO THE BOTTOM of why it just won't idle when I start it up.

Today, I almost went out and bought a $60.00 IACV w.gasket (Autozone) Pep Boys ($110.00+ $19.00 gasket. old one works fine.) I keep thinking it could be Fuel relay,TFI Module, need a brand new IACV, EGR, FPR, or an array of everything combined.

________________________________________
Another thing I did noticed was heavy corrosion of the wires (about 4-6 each) feeding from the bundled chassis wiring harness running alongside the air filter box and into each of the two relays on the passenger side, attached to the fender wall. (Picture below) Haven't called ford to see how much they are.



I have contacted three area FORD salvage years as well as two FORD dealerships and although they have both the FUEL RELAY (the top part # unknown for $59.63) and the Multi-Function relay part number# E(eight)DB13853AA green colored Ford part for $ 48.64) None of these places carry the actual wired-pigtailed bottom section from the wire harness bundle to plug in the above mentioned parts.