When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Glenn
I picked up the 5th wheel in 2008, they were trying to stay in buisness but they fell through. The trailer was used but un used. Who ever bought it never used it. I bought it used because usually the new owner runs into the bugs and gets them fixed, that way I dont have to do it. Well not this time, I had several things I fixed my self. Anyhow back to the oil filter.
Rocky, I didn't have to fix little bugs but a few big 'bugs'. The cooling unit on the refrigerator, a bent axle and both sides behind the rear tires are ruined by tires blowing out, which I haven't fixed yet, looks bad. I drive to fast with it, 70+. I don't know if you know it but there is a guy that bought the parts department of Travel Supreme if you need parts, its DJ Specialties::Original Factory Parts and Accessories for Travel Supreme Recreational Vehicles. Anyway, that's some good info, I actually talked to the tech guy at flex-a-lite, he couldn't find a sandwich adapter for our trucks eighter. You make a good point about the adapter spinning when you change the filter. To much of that and your going to have a leak. I'm thinking of plan #1 in OP if I can't find something tomorrow. I need to do something because we are leaving on a trip soon. Off topic is my thermostat on my trans coolers, I took it off. My trans stays nice and cool with it off and gets over 210* with it on. I've checked and double checked the instaltion and its off now and staying off. Every thing on this site says to use it for the faster warm ups but I don't care. Its the gut wrenching pulls up some mountain grades that I am concerned about.
Glenn
No I did not know about the DJ Specialties::Original Factory Parts and Accessories for Travel Supreme Recreational Vehicles site, tanks for the info.
I see were some folks install the filter remote relocation head and then mount the new filter to the drivers side main frame beam. Then route to a cooler. I am considering this option.
Please excuse my ignorance. but dont our trucks come with oil coolers already? I read an earlier post about how cool the guys engine runs but his oil isnt as cool? the oil coolers on our trucks use engine coolant to cool the oil. so, wouldn that indicate the oil to coolant heat exchanger not functioning as designed? also adapting the oil filter so it runs through small oil lines to a remote air to oil cooler may restrict the oil flow? the center of the oil filter is like around 1-1/2" in diameter would your remote cooler have fittings that large so as to not restrict flow back to the engine? just wondering. I may be missing something. I'll be following this thread to see how things go. is it possible that scale from the water/coolant has built up in the OEM cooler causing it to not work as good? it seems to me that if your oil temperature isnt close to your coolant temperature then that OEM cooler must not be working right?
Ken, your probably right, I'm chasing my tail. One of the first posts by Bill (MadVan) said our oil is good to 260*, that should have been my tip off but like a bull I keep pursuing the oil cooler. Now I'm not after talking to Bob Reilly at DieselSite. He sold me my adrenaline and we have talked a lot over the years. He said I don't need one, that's it normal for oil to run up to 50* hotter then the coolant. Thats why there are no products out there for aux oil coolers. He said its normal for our motors to run cool and the oil to run hotter. The oil cools the motor, the coolant cools the oil. He asked if I've set a code and I said no. He said the oil has to be up to 270* before codes will be set. If a cooler was installed, it would kill a guy's mileae. I've put the brakes on this mod but I'm all ears to any input. Why do you have a oil cooler MADVAN????? Come out of hiding buddy.
I think he is chasing a problem that isn't really a problem. That oil temp isn't really that high considering what the coolant temp is.
I wonder if he was a Navy steam engineer like me. We panicked when the oil temp leaving a bearing got to 180 and really panicked at 200.
These bearings are a little different than on a steam turbine though.
FWIW, I just rebuilt my oil cooler and it was just nasty inside. I flushed out the oil side of it with hot water first and you wouldn't believe the junk that came out of it. Then I used mineral spirits on it and even more crud came out. I flushed it for a couple hours before it started coming out clean, then I put it in my ultrasonic cleaner. I have to change that cleaning solvent now too.
A filthy oil cooler isn't going to do a lot of good is my point. Try cleaning the one you have and see what happens.
I think he is chasing a problem that isn't really a problem. That oil temp isn't really that high considering what the coolant temp is.
I wonder if he was a Navy steam engineer like me. We panicked when the oil temp leaving a bearing got to 180 and really panicked at 200.
These bearings are a little different than on a steam turbine though.
FWIW, I just rebuilt my oil cooler and it was just nasty inside. I flushed out the oil side of it with hot water first and you wouldn't believe the junk that came out of it. Then I used mineral spirits on it and even more crud came out. I flushed it for a couple hours before it started coming out clean, then I put it in my ultrasonic cleaner. I have to change that cleaning solvent now too.
A filthy oil cooler isn't going to do a lot of good is my point. Try cleaning the one you have and see what happens.
You talk to me like I'm a third person somewhere else. I'm right here RRanch. Like I agreed with Ken, I'm agreeing with you, I probably don't have a problem. I was a railroad engineer for 30 years, does that count? I don't think so, the way they treated us like chit under their feet I didn't care if the locomotives oil was 400*, I ran them untill they pucked. I don't think its worth the hassle to pull the stock cooler eithter, until it leaks like everybody else. I've never read about someone pulling their cooler just to clean it. I've been running a coolant filter for years now, I'm only guessing but I would think my stock cooler is half way clean.
I see that it has been decided that this problem is not a problem, but here is my idea anyways.
Instead of full flow cooling. Mainly becuase I wouldn't want to restrict the oil flow any more than it has to. What about bypass cooling. Like put a cooler in the return line of the bypass filter.
Bill has one on his and thats enough for me to still look into this. I think running a controled temperature is better than a defaulted operating condition temp. In heavy hauls and long towing periods I would rather keep my oil from thermal cycling resulting in a increase of cPs breakdown in a shorter period of time than that during regular driving. If you are towing 15K in 110 degrees then you can easily approach the higher temps mentioned, when driving the posted highway speeds. Not to mention that if your oil is getting a little age on it with higher temps then you may experience some foaming. So during towing heavy load I would prefer if I switch aout of OD to lessen the load on a transmission that is getting a little to hot then the load shifts to my engin, then the thermostate that Bill mentioned kicks in and help to reduce the oil temperature which consequently can reduce the EGT's.
So in short I plan to research this more. If I find any notable information I will post it.
pulling the oil cooler out from under our trucks is no easy task from what I've read here at fte forums. so with that, some of you have 200 -300k miles on your rigs. ever pull that sucker? seems to me like it might be something to consider. I imagine the oil side tends to get full of gunk after that many miles. but i wonder what the water side looks like after that many miles? even slight mineral build up would affect heat transfer. so we need someone whos recently done oil cooler o-rings to chime in and give the whats up on that. are the heat transfer components of the cooler replaceable?
Pulling the cooler is a nasty job and as far as being hard well the hard part to me was stabing the forward gasket on the replacement. Never have had to do my own but have odne others and help others.
The cleaner the air in as well as maintaining the oils condition, the less problems. Maintaining consistant oil temperature control during operations; the longer the seals will last on the oil cooler and less bearing wear. Some folks even cool the oil to the turbo bearings. All of this along with how well the coolant specs are maintained play a huge roll in mechinical equipment longevity.
In post 10 I stated that wrong about the port on the oil fiter head. That's the pressure port and the port in the block is the return port, which I'm using for my FS2500 oil bypass system. Nelstone74 might have something there, what would it hurt to tap into the return line of the by pass filter and cool the oil before it dumps back into the block? IIRC they are all 1/2" fittings and the cooler I'm looking at has 1/2" fittings. Oil flowing through a cooler isn't restrictive, is it?
Cannot say what gains you will see if you install the
oil cooler on the return line of your bypass system. The
flow of the bypass filter is small.
At the 250*oil temp is when i started looking into oil cooling.
I would get high oil and trans temps in summer on the
beach sand running in 4X4 low. Problem was not enough air
crossing the front of truck. (low speed in 4X4 low)
I have a dual remote for full flow and a stand alone bypass.
The dual is equal to the 1 oem filter. (no gain in filtering)
Have around 130K on the system. The cooler is worth a 15*
drop in oil temp.
If you install a cooler, you want it 100% shut down for winter time running.
Ken_C
The oem oil cooler is what it is an oil cooler.
Oil temp is hotter than coolant temp!
This along with trans fluid. Thus the reason the trans fluid has an air to
fluid cooler added.
The oil galley that feeds the oil filter (oem) has much more restriction
do to its size than the added oil lines in a remote filter system will ever have.
IIRC its 1/4in? (oem)
I just talked to FS2500 guys and you are 100% correct Bill, the return of the bypass filter is only gallon to a gallon and a half a minute. Not enough to make any difference. Bill, in that link you provided in the beginning of this thread, you stated that you used parts from that kit. This gave me the inpression that you didn't use all of the parts or added parts to that kit. Probably a stupid statement because you say you have a fan and that kit didn't have a fan. What fan did you use and how is it operated, manual or thermostatically?
I tossed the oil lines, fittings and clamps from the kit.
They have a habbit of leaking from the heat cycles.
I used aeroquip blue hose with crimped AN fittings.
Auto t-stat set at 250* on for the 8in fan.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.