Well now that i got over 106k on my 2000 2.5 LT XL I think its time to change the dreaded timing belt,,2 things i'm wondering about,what size is the crank pulley nut and any way to get that pulley off the keyway without buying the special tool? I'm getting a 950lb impact gun hopefully that will be enough to loosen the bolt...

 

.........assuming you can get the gun in the tight quarters / area where it's needed.

Spray all the bolts/nuts to be removed with some penetrating oil (like WD40) every day for a week (while the engine is still warm - after driving it) and let it soak in prior to doing this project. The parts removal will go much easier for you as a result...........

I don't know about a 2.5L, but if the project is similar as with a 2.3L, I would also suggest you seriously consider replacing the water pump, thermostat, associated gaskets, coolant, serpentine belt and tensioner. You will be, 'right there and it won't get any easier in the future' during the course of the tear down.

BarnieTrk

 

dont have a clue about the rangers. but there appears to be a timing sensor attached to the harmonic balancer, before doing anything i would ensure it is cylinder 1 is at tdc of the compression stroke by holding my thumb over it and lining it up with marks if there are any. on my 69 f100 i got the nut off by using a little heat, i wouldnt recommend using an impact gun on it considering what it is attached to inside the engine. i also removed the radiator to give myself more room, on my 69 the sprockets had plastic coated teeth that were shattered, and the chain had tons of play, and there were tests i performed to diagnose this beforehand, otherwise i probly would not have done it. but i am glad i did. on many cars you run the risk of a piston striking a valve, if it goes, but on my moms toyota camry, this was not the case, so she didnt replace it until it blew. maybe the rangers are similar? idk have fun.

 

the 2.5 are non interference motors. your belt is at the end of its life span. I have never changed one so I am a little curios myself. I have read some threads before but I am not sure about setting the #1 cylinder. I was wondering if you can just line up the marks on all the sprockets or if you do have to set the #1. I will follow the thread and see what peeps say. I also would at a minimum throw on a new gatorback serp belt.

 

Seems like I saw somewhere,as long as the keyway is at the top it is at top dead center on the compression...

 

I just read about the repair in my haynes manual. it appears that if you line up all the marks that it is then set so that the #1 cyl in is at top dead cent on the compression stroke. it always confused me because they say find top dead cent but all they should say is align all the marks up and then it is automatically at TDC.

 

Yeah it confused me too,, like TDC was a completely different step of many