Time for New Wires - Need Some Input
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Time for New Wires - Need Some Input
1988 Ford Ranger XLT 2.9L - 5 Speed
Replaced spark plugs in fall - time to replace wires
Q? What wires do you suggest - Dealer or After Market [Bosch]
Q? What is the firing order for 2.9L
[DOES SOMEONE HAVE A PICTORIAL/DIAGRAM]
Q? Should I replace distributor & rotor also .. or just inspect visually
Also ... unrelated .... what's the BEST way to find air leaks from rubber lines
.... soap & water and spray and look for bubbles
Thanks for all input/suggestions
glassman
Replaced spark plugs in fall - time to replace wires
Q? What wires do you suggest - Dealer or After Market [Bosch]
Q? What is the firing order for 2.9L
[DOES SOMEONE HAVE A PICTORIAL/DIAGRAM]
Q? Should I replace distributor & rotor also .. or just inspect visually
Also ... unrelated .... what's the BEST way to find air leaks from rubber lines
.... soap & water and spray and look for bubbles
Thanks for all input/suggestions
glassman
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 681
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From: SE Michigan
You can get the best service with Motorcraft wires, which are available at various auto parts stores so you don't need to go to a dealer. If you don't know when the cap and rotor were last changed it would be a good idea to change them at the same time you get new wires. The firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6. Sorry I don't have a diagram right now. But if you change one wire at a time you should be ok. What rubber lines are you talking about for air leaks? Most of the rubber lines on the engine are for vacuum. You can visually inspect them for being free of cracks and splits. Especially at the ends or where they make a bend. They should also not be hard or brittle, but they should be kind of soft and easy to bend so they will seal good to the places they hook up to. Pressure lines like radiator hoses and heater hoses should not be too soft, which is a sign of weakness and maybe being too old. They shouldn't have any bulges and the clamps shouldn't be overly tight. The power steering lines shouldn't be leaking or splitting at the end where the return line goes to the reservoir.
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THANKS ;)
I appreciate the quick response - I now feel abit more 'knowledgeable'
In regard to the rubber lines .. yes ... it was the air lines I was talking about. Someone had told me it was alright the use soap & water and spray lightly on lines & look for bubbles .... air leak > causes engine to 'mis-fire / not run properly.
If I don't ask .. I'll never learn
[something I believe in-passed on to kids]
Thanks again
glassman
In regard to the rubber lines .. yes ... it was the air lines I was talking about. Someone had told me it was alright the use soap & water and spray lightly on lines & look for bubbles .... air leak > causes engine to 'mis-fire / not run properly.
If I don't ask .. I'll never learn
[something I believe in-passed on to kids]
Thanks again
glassman
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From: Connecticut
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A method that I was told of to find vacuum leaks was to take a plumbing torch, and just slightly open the valve letting out some propane or MAPP gas. Move this over the area where you think you may have a vac leak, and if the RPMs in your engine go up, you know you have a leak there.
Obviously, this can be dangerous, since engines are hot and have sparks and all that other stuff. BE CAREFUL if you try it.
Obviously, this can be dangerous, since engines are hot and have sparks and all that other stuff. BE CAREFUL if you try it.
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The problem with this method is that 90% of the time it does not detect the leak. Usually you can make a good case for replacing the lines on condition alone. Rubber soft and crumbly means replacement is a good idea. If the rubber is pliable and supple, then it is still good.
