Okay, well I searched this site for the last 2 days and didn't find anything even similar to my issue. Have 96 bronco 5.8 xlt, was working fine on tuesday this week that's 2 days ago. No issues, went to start it wed morning and all it would do is click. Pulled the starter and battery got them tested. No problem. Pulled the pack on the pass fender and replaced with a new one was just 20 bucks and the one in it was the original anyway. Still same result after swapping the pack. No difference with the old pack or new one. Here is the kicker though, after you first try to start it clicks, then loses all power. I mean nothing works. Remove battery cable and replace now power is restored. Try to start again same result as before. Now I'm certain this is a short of some kind sucking up power after trying to start. I pulled all fuses and relays from dash and under hood no change. I have check the cables from bat to starter and alternator no problems, and they all test fine. Any ideas what else this could be? So what else is could be shorting out when the starter is engaged to cause this. Not sure if I'm just being blinded by frustration or what. Oh by the way if turn key to acc or just on all power works fine before trying to start that is.

Appreciate any other ideas or suggestions.

 

Check grounds.

 

I originally thought was a ground issue as well. However would a grounding issue cause all power in the truck to go out after trying to start it? For example something as simple as the hood light works before trying to start. Then after trying to start it hood light wont even come back on until I disconnect the battery then reconnect it. So something has to be drawing power to suck it all up from all other items, thus why I'm thinking something is shorting out.

 

You say the battery and starter cables test fine... so you get the same voltage at the starter and through the solenoid as you get at the battery itself? I'm not doubting you, I'm pursuing a potential resolution to your problem.

Second possible issue but I need a little more info first. Does the starter have a small red wire that connects to the solenoid on the starter itself? It should terminate with a female 1/4" "spade" type terminal. If so, this terminal has no insulation. I don't know why Ford built it this way especially when you consider that its down under the truck getting sprayed with all sorts of road crud that could corrode and cause it to lose good contact. If you find this little terminal under there, disconnect it, clean it really well and reconnect. See if your problem goes away. If so, cut off the bare female terminal and install an insulated version. (Yes, this is the voice of experience with this issue).

Now, if the above is NOT the case, disconnect the battery positive at the battery AND at the start relay/solenoid on the fender. Check the actual resistance of the cable from one end to the other. It should be less than 1 ohm if the cable is good. If that cable checks out, check the cable from the solenoid on the fender to the starter itself again, disconnecting it at BOTH ends. Any reading greater than 1 ohm is cause to question the condition of the cable. Battery and starter cables can corrode from the inside out... again, the voice of experience with this exact issue.

In short, yes, a weak ground or corroded wiring can cause the problems you are having. When a connection is weak it can show the correct voltage and even appear fine until a load is put on the circuit. The starter is the single biggest load on the battery bar none. Even if the cable or connection can handle the relatively small amount of electricity required to light say your under-hood lamp or even your courtesy entry lamps can be too weak to handle the load of the starter. Then what happens is simply the same thing that happens inside you flasher or an overloaded fuse. The heat created by the excess electricity trying to get through the circuit causes the fuse to break or the bi-metal in the flasher to expand. Either way it causes the circuit to break. Flashers and fuses are designed to do this to either protect from overload or created the flashing. A weak connection will do this simply because there isn't enough contact between conductors to handle the amount of electricity being drawn through it. This generates heat and the expansion breaks the circuit in the same manner.

 

Sounds like ground to me. Is the Ground cable streached to reach where it bolts? Or is it bent, twisted, binding or rubbing anything? I had one that was twisted one turn one time and it eventually frayed inside enough that the truck wouldnt start anymore. It blew my mind because it looked perfectly fine.

 

Check your emessions system fuse, sounds like the problem I had everthing worked but no power.

 

Swapped cables just cause they had some frays and figured wouldn't hurt to do so. Still same result as before. All electrical power works, then try to start and now no power at all until I pull a battery cable and reattach it. sorry guys still thinking not a ground issue cause something has to be sucking power after ignition. That's the only thing that I could think would explain no electrical power until pulling cable and reattaching it. Could it possibly be the ignition switch or are there any other items that could cause a "short" like this? I could understand if had no power at all regardless of trying to start the truck. A ground would be my first check, but something is completing the circuit here and sucking up all the juice.

 

Yeah, Check your grounds.

 

Did check multiple grounds between the cables, body, chassis, and several other locations related to the ignition circuit. Still not finding anything wrong or frayed. Will be testing the ignition switch in the morning and bypass the ignition switch with a starter trigger.

 

An Engine needs fuel, heat and spark, to run. (If I remember Correctly)
You must not be getting on of 'em.

 

Don't forget air!

 

Well thanks for the detailed info greystreak. And for pointing out the ground concern with the spade connector dealt with that one on many a ford product. Also thanks to others that made other suggestions. I got a kick out of the fuel, air, heat, spark. Actually was very welcome after the day I had yesterday anyway.

However, part of what I think everyone seems to be overlooking is the fact that with a ground issue power would still be available even after starter trying to engage from ignition switch. It wouldn't kill all electrical power after attempting to start unless a fuse blew out or something else. Yet with a shorting issue all power would be sucked up by whatever is shorting out. Which is why I am willing to listen to the suggestions but don't agree with them being the problem in this situation. Hell the truck is 15 years old doesn't hurt to check it all out anyway.

I'm about to go check out the switch right now, and just found my remote start trigger. So will try the trigger first. I'm hoping is just the spade connector switch assembly rather than the whole ignition wiring or tumbler. Either way will post result shortly.

 

Well, found the issue with the ignition switch assembly. Finally, been moving to a new place and part of my frustration is haven't been able to use the truck. for now until I finish moving I'm just using the starter switch to move it to my new place then replace this old burnt out switch unit.


Just in case anyone that isn't familiar with the part here are pics of a new one.

 

Oh ya, I scrapped mine and put in a few toggle switches and a push button.