new to differentials
If you have never done the oil change in that many miles then this is a good idea because you could have condensation and all sorts of other gunk in there. After you've worked it around sufficiently pop the cover and remove it. Use a towel to sop the leftover crap out of the bottom. Check your pinion seal to see if it leaks, this is a good time to change it if it dribbles. Also check your vent line.
You can reseal it like factory with the adhesive sealant but if possible go to your local hose and gasket supply and buy a sheet of gasket material and make a gasket for the cover. This is so much better in my opinion and if you rtv one side to the cover and apply a little oil to the other surface before assembly you can reuse it over and over. I use the original synthetic oil in mine with a little Lucas treatment. I only have LS on my 02 but use the factory juice along with a little Lucas as well.
While your under the back end you may also want to consider purging your brake system at each wheel. At 155,000 miles you will have considerable gunk buildup in your brake lines if you use your truck on your farm like I do. I have drums on my 6cyl and disks on my 8cyl but I use the 6 the most out in the pasture and around pulling a 5th wheel and it sees allot of moisture so I have to really pay attention to maintenance on that one. You'd be suprised how much crap will work its way into your brake lines. :-/
If you have never done the oil change in that many miles then this is a good idea because you could have condensation and all sorts of other gunk in there. After you've worked it around sufficiently pop the cover and remove it. Use a towel to sop the leftover crap out of the bottom. Check your pinion seal to see if it leaks, this is a good time to change it if it dribbles. Also check your vent line.
You can reseal it like factory with the adhesive sealant but if possible go to your local hose and gasket supply and buy a sheet of gasket material and make a gasket for the cover. This is so much better in my opinion and if you rtv one side to the cover and apply a little oil to the other surface before assembly you can reuse it over and over. I use the original synthetic oil in mine with a little Lucas treatment. I only have LS on my 02 but use the factory juice along with a little Lucas as well.
While your under the back end you may also want to consider purging your brake system at each wheel. At 155,000 miles you will have considerable gunk buildup in your brake lines if you use your truck on your farm like I do. I have drums on my 6cyl and disks on my 8cyl but I use the 6 the most out in the pasture and around pulling a 5th wheel and it sees allot of moisture so I have to really pay attention to maintenance on that one. You'd be suprised how much crap will work its way into your brake lines. :-/
Sounds good. Is there something i should do to get the diesel residue out of the rear end? Or should i just let it evaporate as much as possible? And thanks for the idea about purging the brakes, that hadnt even occured to me since i havent had to work on mine since i got the truck back in August.
Definitely purge the brake system. I sucked all the old fluid out of the master cylinder and refilled with synthetic brake fluid and pumped until it ran clean. What came out was really dirty.....
Definitely purge the brake system. I sucked all the old fluid out of the master cylinder and refilled with synthetic brake fluid and pumped until it ran clean. What came out was really dirty.....
I can look at my master cylinder and tell that its gonna be bad.... i dont think they have ever been flushed.... Ill look into the gasket, but i dont want to spend 30 bucks when i could use the rtv sealant (that is the correct term right?) for much less.lol. But i do realize this is not the project to skimp out on. A thought just occured to me.. Should i work on my front diff while im at it? And would it be the same as working on the rear?
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I haven't done my front diff yet, but I can't see where it would be much different. I know that it doesn't have to work nearly as hard as the rear all things considered. Definitely check your fluid level, though......
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I haven't done my front diff yet, but I can't see where it would be much different. I know that it doesn't have to work nearly as hard as the rear all things considered. Definitely check your fluid level, though......
$30 for a gasket is ridiculous. I made mine for about $1.25 each.
Buy a sheet of gasket material, the stuff that's close to 1/16" thick. It's super cheap at a hose and gasket store. If you dont have one (I doubt cause pretty much every decent sized town has one) then you can buy sheet single thickness material at autozone. Don't buy the square assortment pack, they will have rolls of the gray/black material of variouis thickness in the back. Ask for it, it might be $3 (but realize you will get three times as much for that much at a hose gasket supply and if you are anything like me, you can always find places to use gasket material on your farm) but it will definitley not be something they shelve out on the floor.
Clean the diff cover, smear a coat of oil or grease around the sealing surface, then lay on top of the material. Theres your outline to cut out...slick as snot.
$30 for a gasket is ridiculous. I made mine for about $1.25 each.
Buy a sheet of gasket material, the stuff that's close to 1/16" thick. It's super cheap at a hose and gasket store. If you dont have one (I doubt cause pretty much every decent sized town has one) then you can buy sheet single thickness material at autozone. Don't buy the square assortment pack, they will have rolls of the gray/black material of variouis thickness in the back. Ask for it, it might be $3 (but realize you will get three times as much for that much at a hose gasket supply and if you are anything like me, you can always find places to use gasket material on your farm) but it will definitley not be something they shelve out on the floor.
Clean the diff cover, smear a coat of oil or grease around the sealing surface, then lay on top of the material. Theres your outline to cut out...slick as snot.
hahaha i realize 30 bucks is outrageous for a gasket. its just been my experience with stuff like that, that prices are generally outrageous. but if i can get the gasket/material that cheap i will deffinatly do it as the rtv sealant is 10-13 bucks. and your right about needing gasket material around the farm ... come to think of it we have some but it is about 2 inches wide and a quarter inch thick. lol
If you can afford it purge the whole system and refill with DOT-5 synthetic. I have DOT-3 in my 02 but next purge I will swap out with DOT-5. I already swapped out to DOT5 on my 00. I use DOT-5 on my military vehicles so this is why I stock it. The M35A2 uses an air over hydraulic system and the hydraulic side is filled with DOT-5 because of its superior moisture resistance. DOT-5 just plain keeps so much longer that DOT-3 and you will get 0 condensation in your lines with it.


