solid lifter valve train question that's been buggin me
I keep seeing things about blocking off the oil galleries, and am wondering if I need to do this to my engine before I finish putting it all together. Haven't had a lot of luck digging up information about this.
Do I need to block things off? And if so what needs to be blocked? The entire upper galleries? (I'd think that would be bad) Just the galleries that provide oil to the lifters? (would make more sense)
I did note some things about how to block off galleries, and I don't think that will be a problem. I just don't want to go blocking the wrong things (or blocking anything, if it doesn't need to be done)
Thanks,
John
Here's what I've heard or gleaned from folks here, DSC, and reading materials:
1) Block off the drivers side and passenger side "offshoot" passages to the lifter galleries. Do it by tapping deeper in the hole, past the main gallery and put the first plug in deeply, past the main gallery. Then the scondary plug only replaces the pressed in expansion plug. Do the same for the lifter gallery on the other side. And, of course, leave the main center gallery unobstructed in any way.
2) Tap it with whatever tap seems to fit based on drill size, either set-screw or NPT pipe tap. No one (including me) seems to know what the original factory engines with solid lifters used for tap sizes. William even suggested the novel idea of just driving in the right size expansion plugs to do the same job.
3) If you use the "shell-type" lifters from Erson (or DSC), you don't need to block anything, but you will need special, longer length pushrods (from DSC).
We've not yet heard from DF of this one.
Last edited by mlf72f250; Jan 22, 2003 at 11:08 PM.
The second I have only heard of a few people doing and have never acctually seen it done this way. Take galley plug out. Insert a push rod the diameter of the lifter gallery. Reinsert gallery plug. And that is it.
I don't like the second method becuase nothing keeps the push rod from sliding all around inside the gallery. It is however quick and easy. The only reason I would do the latter is if I had already hot tanked engine and was going to tear motor apart in the near future.
Hope this helps.
Scotty
The lifters I picked up are the ones erson lists in their catalog, E914161 (16 mechanical tappets), and I picked up their push rods as well, which are listed out as E917331 (C.H. pushrods, 3/8 x 9.465). It doesn't really mention anywhere if these are standard mechanical tappet lifters or the clams. But that's the only part number I can find for their lifters. DSC's picture looks about right, but that's not a good way to tell for sure.
I'll shoot dsc an email about the pushrods. It's possible that since erson makes the odd lifters, the pushrods they supply for them are sized appropriately. You'd hope so, anyways.
Interesting thing I noticed from Crane Cams webpage on their pushrods. They have some FE pushrods for "Hydraulic lifters and adjustable rockers" that are 9.234 and some for "Mechanical lifters and adjustable rockers" that are 10.656.. hoped that would clear it up but it doesn't. May have to call erson tomorrow as well and see what they have to say.
If I get more useful info, I'll update this.
Thanks,
John
Last edited by John72_CS; Jan 23, 2003 at 05:03 AM.
That definitely helps clear things up. Time to block off some passages.
Thanks guys,
John
The pushrods are longer to work with the hollow shell-type solid lifters. They have the cup-type end for use with the adjustable rockers. I don't have a part number for the pushrods. They are just what DSC said would work with my setup.
--Matt
Last edited by mlf72f250; Jan 23, 2003 at 03:25 PM.



