Starting trouble
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New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
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Starting trouble
I just had a new starter put in my truck and now it will not start. It rolls over just fine but will not fire. And yes the cps has been replaced. So here are the symptoms I am hearing when I try to start the truck
1: with the key in the on position I am hearing a buzzing noise coming from the pump? that is located under the starter relay on the passenger fender well. Is it a pump? What does it do and should be that loud?
2: When I go to roll the truck over there is a clicking sound coming from under the dash.
3: With the key in the on position and when it is running there is a beeping noise coming from under the dash that sounds like an alarm that beeps 5 times then takes a break then beeps again
Thank you in advance for all your help.
Frustrated ford owner
1: with the key in the on position I am hearing a buzzing noise coming from the pump? that is located under the starter relay on the passenger fender well. Is it a pump? What does it do and should be that loud?
2: When I go to roll the truck over there is a clicking sound coming from under the dash.
3: With the key in the on position and when it is running there is a beeping noise coming from under the dash that sounds like an alarm that beeps 5 times then takes a break then beeps again
Thank you in advance for all your help.
Frustrated ford owner
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
From: Frankfort, KY
Here's where to start:
Sufficient Clean Fuel
Battery voltage
Glow plugs working
Check Engine Oil Level
Inspect oil for color. A milky white oil indicates possible coolant contamination and will have an ethylene
glycol odor.
The level in the oil reservoir should also be checked. Remove the inspection plug in top of reservoir and
check to see if the oil reservoir is full.
Inspect fuel system including fuel tank and fuel lines for kinks, bends and/or leakage. Check oil lines and
high pressure pump in engine V for major oil leaks.
Intake/Exhaust Restriction
Fuel pump pressure- determine if there is sufficient fuel pressure for starting
Perform KOEO On-Demand Self Test- Get trouble codes
KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test- injector buzz test
Monitor ICP While Cranking
Sufficient Clean Fuel
Battery voltage
Glow plugs working
Check Engine Oil Level
Inspect oil for color. A milky white oil indicates possible coolant contamination and will have an ethylene
glycol odor.
The level in the oil reservoir should also be checked. Remove the inspection plug in top of reservoir and
check to see if the oil reservoir is full.
Inspect fuel system including fuel tank and fuel lines for kinks, bends and/or leakage. Check oil lines and
high pressure pump in engine V for major oil leaks.
Intake/Exhaust Restriction
Fuel pump pressure- determine if there is sufficient fuel pressure for starting
Perform KOEO On-Demand Self Test- Get trouble codes
KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test- injector buzz test
Monitor ICP While Cranking
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
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The truck ran fine yesterday once I got it started. I am thinking it is an electrical issue. I have a full tank of diesel from the same place I have been buying it for the past 4 years. So fuel is not an issue. The oil looks good and does not smell.
What is the device that is located right below the starter relay on the passenger fender well
thanks
What is the device that is located right below the starter relay on the passenger fender well
thanks
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
From: Fort Campbell, KY
The truck ran fine yesterday once I got it started. I am thinking it is an electrical issue. I have a full tank of diesel from the same place I have been buying it for the past 4 years. So fuel is not an issue. The oil looks good and does not smell.
What is the device that is located right below the starter relay on the passenger fender well
thanks
What is the device that is located right below the starter relay on the passenger fender well
thanks
Try turning the key to the on position, then hop out and "feel" the fuel pump that lives on the inside of the "C" channel frame rail right under the driver seat (under the truck), we need to be sure it's running.
Has your airbag light been on, does it come on when you turn the key to the "on" position? That alarm sound sounds like the SRS system attempting to let you know there is a problem with the system. I'll look the code up tonight if someone doesn't beat me to it. Do you have a WTS light illuminate when you turn to the "on" position?
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New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
The vacuum pump seems to stay on for 15-20 seconds then putters out towards the end. The length that it is running is longer than usual it seems.
The fuel pump is running with the key on. The wts light comes on as well. The airbag light does not come on with the key in the on postion.
Is there a way to check for codes without having a device to plug it into the harness under the dash?
The fuel pump is running with the key on. The wts light comes on as well. The airbag light does not come on with the key in the on postion.
Is there a way to check for codes without having a device to plug it into the harness under the dash?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
From: Fort Campbell, KY
This would be a good time to go ahead and give us the info on your truck (year, tranny, mods, etc.) Need to check the voltage while cranking the engine. Check for good connections at the batteries. (they probably removed them to install the starter) You want to see at least 10 volts while the starter is turning the engine over.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Sounds like a battery/battery connection problem. Double check the wiring running to the starter.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
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Finally got my truck started! Yea but it still doesn't solve the problem. The way I got it started is plugged in the block heater and let it work for 3 hours or so. With all my tries of getting it started my batteries had lost some of its power so I hooked up some jumper cables to another car and the truck rolled right over. Can I say I hate electrical issues on vehicles. So I am letting the truck run and warm up to operating temperature then I will turn it off and see if it will roll over again.
Will let you know what happens.
Thanks again for all the help
Will let you know what happens.
Thanks again for all the help
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
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So I go out this morning to fire up the truck and it will crank but not roll over. I left the heater block plugged in over night as well. Everytime I crank it I am hearing a clicking sound when it won't roll over. When it does roll over I do not hear the clicking sound.
Any thoughts on what the clicking noise could be coming from? Frustrated ford owner!
Specs on the truck are 2000 ccsb 4x4 129,000 on her
6637 air filter and 4 inch exhaust
Can the ICP sensor cause this?
Any thoughts on what the clicking noise could be coming from? Frustrated ford owner!
Specs on the truck are 2000 ccsb 4x4 129,000 on her
6637 air filter and 4 inch exhaust
Can the ICP sensor cause this?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
Check the voltage on the batteries. The IDM needs to see 10.5 Volts minimum to fire the injectors repeated attempts to start along with the GP's running will drain the batteries down quickly. When you hear the clicking or chattering that is usually a sign of low voltage. Why did you change your starter in the first place? How old are the batteries? Are the terminals and clamps clean and tight?
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
On my first three tries to start the truck I waited untill the glow plugs kick off and the voltage gauge in the truck kicks up over the halfway point. One battery is 2 months old and the other is a year old and I had that one checked when I bought the new battery. The terminals are clean and tight as well.
I also hooked up jumper cables to give me extra power and the clicking noise was still there.
I also hooked up jumper cables to give me extra power and the clicking noise was still there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,600
Likes: 3
From: Carhenge
This is a dead givaway that it is a battery voltage or connection problem. Charge the batteries, load test them, and check the connections.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,708
Likes: 5
From: Kiowa CO
I think you have a dead/dying battery or batteries. One will drag the other down. It's the best practice to replace them in pairs. Good luck.
