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Water Pump Puked!

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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 09:31 PM
  #1  
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Water Pump Puked!

My water pump puked, or at least I think it was the pump. Coolant reservoir tank is empty and coolant was running down the front of the block. The thing that worries me is that the fan and belt slung something dark all over the front of the engine, kind of looks like oil but I don't think it is. It almost looks like some "stop leak" but I never used it and have changed the coolant and pump since I bought the truck. Any ideas on the mysterious brown stuff?
Fortunately, I got a pump with a "lifetime warranty" so I just have the pain of changing the pump. I will probably rent the fan clutch tool, but if I were to buy one, does anyone know what size the nut is?
I think I just threw in the thermostat that the book called for, but is there a better choice?
Is there any "while I'm at it... I might as well..." while I have the pump off?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 05:44 AM
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Many put in a 203 degree thermostat to bring the engine operating pressure up a little bit. If you search 203 degree thermostat, I am sure you'll find several threads with all the info you need. I believe it may require a different housing. I did the mod several years ago. Bought the stuff online for a very reasonable price. Something like $30 for the new neck and 'stat, if I recall.
My water pump quit on me a couple of months ago. I had to bite it and let my garage replace it as I don't have a garage nor the time at this time of year to do it myself. It was cold outside when it happened, and I am past the age where I am willing to do that kind of stuff outdoors freezing my fingers off.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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It was, for sure, pump failure.
Which 203* thermostat do I need to get?
I don't remember if I need to use any sealant on the mating surface. If so what to use?
One last thing, for now, what is the sensor on the top of the pump. I stripped it trying to remove it so will have to get a new one.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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The new pump should come with some sealant. Make sure that the motor boss fit side is cleaned of material and has no corrosion. Then with the new pump put some of the sealant in the gasket channel, put it at several locations at every cross gasket section and some on the top long gasket curved area. Enough to hold the gasket in place while you stab it. You should not need more sealant if there is no corrosion on the moter seal side. I used a long straight pry bar and a couple of rapid hits on the right hand side of the nut to bust it loose. It takes about 3 hits. The shroud is a pain. See my post on the radiator shroud pull its the same deal just about except the radiator stays and the pump comes out. Cover your raditor to ensure that you dont poke a hole in it if you drop the fan and the clutch. New pump will have a different neck on it.

new


old
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DRRXR
The new pump should come with some sealant. Make sure that the motor boss fit side is cleaned of material and has no corrosion. Then with the new pump put some of the sealant in the gasket channel, put it at several locations at every cross gasket section and some on the top long gasket curved area. Enough to hold the gasket in place while you stab it. You should not need more sealant if there is no corrosion on the moter seal side. I used a long straight pry bar and a couple of rapid hits on the right hand side of the nut to bust it loose. It takes about 3 hits. The shroud is a pain. See my post on the radiator shroud pull its the same deal just about except the radiator stays and the pump comes out. Cover your raditor to ensure that you dont poke a hole in it if you drop the fan and the clutch. New pump will have a different neck on it.

new


old
Thanks! There was no sealant with my new pump. There may have been some in the box, but since I had the old pump out, the parts guy kept the box for the warranty. I did get the bag with the new gaskets. I didn't have any trouble getting the old pump or shroud and fan out. A couple taps on the pump like you said and it popped off. NOTE: Don't leave your shroud leaning against your truck in a rain storm. It will blow over and crack!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 03:29 PM
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I'm not sure what size the nut is, but the easiest way to get it off and back on is with eight air chisel. Just a couple of hits, with the air chisel, and it will come right off. When you do it take the fan shroud and fan to gather. It's a lot easier.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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Dont use a air chisle to put it back on you can use some large channel locks or just snug it up some the natural rotation will help to tighten it over time.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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Rocky

It just needs a couple taps, going back on. Don't go crazy, centrifugal force will tighten it because I believe it is reversed threat. This is to the original person who started the threat. Thank you very much.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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ditto

Originally Posted by DRRXR
Dont use a air chisle to put it back on you can use some large channel locks or just snug it up some the natural rotation will help to tighten it over time.
Nothing crazy here. Just a ditto.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by G BOBKA
I'm not sure what size the nut is, but the easiest way to get it off and back on is with eight air chisel. Just a couple of hits, with the air chisel, and it will come right off. When you do it take the fan shroud and fan to gather. It's a lot easier.
The size nut should be 58 mm, but could be 48 mm in some models

Originally Posted by DRRXR
Dont use a air chisle to put it back on you can use some large channel locks or just snug it up some the natural rotation will help to tighten it over time.
For the 48mm fan clutch nut. Tighten to 84-113 lb-ft,
pretty hard to get a torque wrench on it though. I just tighten it a much as I can pull the wrenches

Originally Posted by G BOBKA
Rocky

It just needs a couple taps, going back on. Don't go crazy, centrifugal force will tighten it because I believe it is reversed threat. This is to the original person who started the threat. Thank you very much.
In the OBS is right hand thread (you can look in the shroud sticker), I also have read that very few are left hand thread

Who understand the ford engineers
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 06:40 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I got the fan off no trouble. I Used the tool kit I rented from O'Reilly's. I don't remember the direction of the threads. Now I'm looking for suggestions for sealant for the gasket.
Also. I can't remember the brand of coolant treatment I got at the International dealer, but O'Reilly's sells Wix cool, will that work?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Coolant

I use this
http://www.scyr.org/stellablue/Texaco_ELC.pdf
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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Got everything tightened up this afternoon. No leaks. I used a 205* thermostat. Looked for a 203* but O'Reilly's didn't list a 203*, just a 205*. I've never seen it run that hot, right in the middle of the "Normal." It didn't even get that hot when the pump failed. I couldn't tell any "seat of the pants" increase in power like some of the 203* threads mention.
 
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