Ok, here is my story. I have a 2004 F250 later build Fx4, Crew Cab, stock except for 5” magnaflow turbo back with no kitty (bought the truck that way) and I have a bullet proof diesel egr cooler, about 150,000 miles on the truck now. In 2010 I had an EGR cooler leak that I let go for some time because I just did not no what it was until I did a lot of research on here. While I have had diesel’s before this is my first 6.0 and my prior truck was a V10. Fast forward to the fall of 2011. I was pulling an 8,000# travel trailer in November and I had the dreaded coolant puking. Didn’t seem like much and I wasn’t fully sure of it. After research I thought maybe I just had too much coolant in the reservoir so I added coolant to just below the min level. I also went ahead and added a coolant pressure sensor when I added my fuel pressure sensor, both of which I monitor through my DashDaq. So in December I pulled the TT again and monitored ECT and Coolant Pressure pretty closely. I had two incidences of puking, both on long hard pulls with sustained boost of 20 – 25 psi. I am not shy about pushing the truck. ECT spiked at 235 which I know is high and was consistently over 210 and up above 220 quite a few times. The pressure was regularly at 12 to 13 psi and I watched it climb to just over 16 psi on the two instances it puked. I was able to control temps and pressure the rest of the trip and keep it from puking by managing how hard and for how long I pushed the truck on a pull.

Now I know I have two issues that I need to address. The number 1 and 2 injectors are not functioning correctly and need to be replaced (I have contribution/balance codes for those two and the symptoms to match). I also have a code for open glow plug circuit on #1, but I haven’t checked it yet to see if it is the plug or the harness.

After the trip in December I had a new code, which was the P0528 code. I have since cleared that code and it has not come back. During normal driving, not pulling anything with these mild temps I have been running about 190 ECT which I think is about normal. The only thing is I don’t think I have ever heard the fan kick up like some people describe. I just thought I couldn’t hear it because of the engine noise. My coolant pressure runs about 12 to 13, may hit 14 under normal driving. I think that may be high from looking at others’ results. I am going to check my calibration again, but I think it is right since the coolant puke occurred when I hit 16 psi on my gauge.

So my question is can a bad fan clutch and the overheating build enough pressure to cause puking? Or are my headgaskets leaking causing the overheating? I run ELC coolant and I am not sure what the boiling temp on it is. I would think that if it boils it could build up enough pressure to pop. I have not tested the coolant for exhaust gassed yet, but plan on doing so. I just hear that you can get false positives and negatives with the test. I don’t have a ton of money to just start throwing parts at the truck. I already need two injectors, but if I am going to do that and need to do HG then I might as well do it at the same time and put in ARP studs, but if it could be the fan clutch I would rather just do that for now. I do my own mechanic work, not professionally trained, but I have kept all sorts of engines here on the farm running. Also I have heard that the water pump being bad can cause puking, but I don’t know if my ECTs indicate that to be a problem. I do know that during the summer here in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:State><st1lace>Texas</st1lace></st1:State> I normally run well above 200 ECT with normal driving. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have been reading tons of threads lately.

Sorry for the book!

 

How hot have your oil temps gotten?

Any damage to the fan clutch wires?

yes, a bad fan clutch can result in puking ............. but you have something else going on if you are puking at 190-200*F coolant temps (which I am assuming you aren't from the way I read your post). That being said, running 12-14 psig at normal driving conditions and 190*F coolant says "head gaskets are a strong possibility" to me.

It is pretty much a guarantee to puke at 16 psig - that is the pressure rating on the cap (relief valve). I don't think you are boiling coolant in the 250 *F range, but you will have quite a bit of thermal expansion of the liquid (which will cause the degas bottle pressure to go up as the vapor space is compressed.

 

Not sure about the fan clutch, but there is a TSB 09-8-3, for coolant loss. I don't recall mention of fan clutch, but more on failed egr or headgaskets.

For me this info was helpful for me in making my case with the dealer for new headgaskets (otherwise it was considered "normal").

I posted my pre vs post headgasket repaired readings here (Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Scott6.0PSD's Album: Pre-Post Headgasket Readings) using a similar setup as you have. This is around town, unloaded.

 

From TSB 08-11-03:

If the cooling system pressure is greater than the holding pressure noted in Step 1, and/or the degas bottle cap continuously vents when loading the engine and the EOT is within 25 degrees of the ECT, perform PC/ED Cooling System Diagnostics for the Vistronic Fan Clutch. If Vistronic Fan Clutch passes or has been replaced continue to Step 8. If Vistronic Fan Clutch fails replace the Vistronic Fan Clutch and repeat Step 5.

I am not familiar w/ TSB 09-8-3 ???? I guess I misssed that one - THANKS!

 

As far as I can tell it does not puke when temps are in the 190-200 range. My deltas on the ect/eot are within range. I can't remember if the oil temps climbed much when my ect climbed. I will look up tsb 8-11-03 and see if I can test the fan clutch. Thanks.

Scott, I read your post before and have the exact same gauge setup you have. The pressure is what has me leaning to head gaskets, but then I had the 0528 code and that got me thinking. I can spend $300 on a new fan easier than the $s for the hgs and studs.

 

I had a bad fan clutch, bought the truck with the bad clutch so i had never even heard it before...so its not like i clued in "i havent heard my fan lately?" I believe this is what caused me headgasket issues due to frequent high coolant temps...just sayin...

 

Here ya go:

 

Thanks Tim!

 

In my op. a fan clutch can definitely cause puking and not down shifting on grades to let your gearing do the work can also cause abnormal temps. When pulling my 31" 5er around the Sierras in 90 to 100 degree ambients I sometimes need to shift down to 3rd gear and let the gearing do the work. 3500 rpm's will not hurt these engines. Better than lugging them with a load on their back.

 

Another data point, The P0528 Electric Fan Clutch Circuit Sensor: No Signal is an issue I have had for a while now.

I have ringed out the wires, investigated the harness, and finally while towing my Fifth Wheel and reaching 210 ECt head that fan kick in. You can not miss the fan ramping up. It is extremely loud and sounds like someone just started a Turbo-Prop engine aircraft under your hood.

My Fan Clutch is working but I get the code intermittantly. Several Mechanic I have talked to about the condition told me that they have chased thier tales on that code with no success.

To help tell if the code is real, follow the connector harness under the fan shroud to the fan clutch. You can do this with out removing the shroud but will need an inspection mirror and some contortioning from the left and right side of the engine.

You are looking for the clamp that holds the harness away from and out of the fan arc. If the clamp is broken and the harness made contact with the fan then it is possible to have severed a wire or two. This will prevent the fan from kicking up.

take a look at that, make sure your cable is in good condition. I have been chasing some of the same "puking" I like to call it "spritzing" issues my self.

Eric

 

So, what was verdict. On having about the same problem right now. Also the filter minder will show 100%.

 

Deleted post due to wrote thread

 

I am having the same P0528 code. I get this code not pulling a load at all. Coolant temps and oil temps are within 3-5deg of each other ECT near 194-196. AC with start to blow warm while idling. Once I get moving the AC continues to blow cold. The harnes for the fan seems to be in tact however the piece of plastic that holds the harness connector did brake and the connector kinda just hangs in the breeze. Looks good though. Is there a way to test any of this before replacing the fan clutch? I do have the latest AE software. Not sure how to test fan control though. How hard is replacing a fan clutch? Could the AC be causing the fan issues? I have 155kmi right now late 04'

Thanks

Ryan

 

Edit: wrong thread.

 

Edit: posted in the wrong thread.