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water pump failure???

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Old 03-07-2010, 07:57 PM
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Question water pump failure???

in an earlier post I talked about seein ect temps @ 235 is there a way to check the water pump to see if it is operating ?
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:58 PM
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The primary symptom of water pump failure is leaking out the weep hole (bearing/seal failure). Only in EXTEREMELY high mileage vehicles have I heard of the impeller vanes "grinding" off. It sounds like you're having a problem with heat dissapation. Change the thermostat then you may wanna have the radiator rotted out or replaced. After eliminating the basics then you may wanna start looking more in depth at you motor. Good Luck.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:10 PM
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is your engine fan operating correctly?. should be on all the time at those temps.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:30 PM
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I don't hear the fan kicking on, no leaks, no coolant loss, no puking,no heat
new radiator,heater core,oil cooler,egr cooler
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by solaratomic View Post
The primary symptom of water pump failure is leaking out the weep hole (bearing/seal failure). Only in EXTEREMELY high mileage vehicles have I heard of the impeller vanes "grinding" off. It sounds like you're having a problem with heat dissapation. Change the thermostat then you may wanna have the radiator rotted out or replaced. After eliminating the basics then you may wanna start looking more in depth at you motor. Good Luck.
There are quite a few cases of the early 6.0L water pumps breaking off their plastic fins or the entire impellor coming off.

I think a coolant system pressure is the best test. I am just now considering the best place to get the coolant pressure reading so I can get some data. The easiest place is on my coolant filter, but that is at the end of the line. The best place is probably at the block plug - I just do not want to drain my system completely (at least not so soon after flushing it).
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:42 AM
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thanks Mark, that's the deal with me ,I don't have a coolant filter yet (that was going to be next) + I just did all this work & a flush also, but if the pump is bad the flush probably didn't do much anyway.
i guess it's back to the dealer sometime this week
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:57 AM
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thanks Mark, that's the deal with me ,I don't have a coolant filter yet (that was going to be next) + I just did all this work & a flush also, but if the pump is bad the flush probably didn't do much anyway.
i guess it's back to the dealer sometime this week
If you replace the water pump go to the 05 pump. It is improved, larger impellers, over the early ones. You will have to change the timing cover behind it also.
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Old 03-08-2010, 02:14 PM
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yeah, I read about the improved 05 pump in some older threads it just makes me to have to tear the truck down that far again after it was done just days ago
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Old 03-08-2010, 05:08 PM
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dropped it off at the dealer, now just waiting to hear from them
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
There are quite a few cases of the early 6.0L water pumps breaking off their plastic fins or the entire impellor coming off.

I think a coolant system pressure is the best test. I am just now considering the best place to get the coolant pressure reading so I can get some data. The easiest place is on my coolant filter, but that is at the end of the line. The best place is probably at the block plug - I just do not want to drain my system completely (at least not so soon after flushing it).
get it at the factory sugested testing location. T into the line from the manifold to the degas jug.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:25 PM
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get it at the factory sugested testing location. T into the line from the manifold to the degas jug.
Wouldn't this be more of a test of the degas bottle pressure and not really the water pump discharge pressure?
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:28 PM
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im going a little slow tonight for some reason and not following. System pressure is system pressure. now if you want to test flow thats something different.
the whole idea about a cooling system is to equalize pressure threw the system to maintain even temp wich in theory will reduce localized boiling.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
im going a little slow tonight for some reason and not following. System pressure is system pressure. now if you want to test flow thats something different.
the whole idea about a cooling system is to equalize pressure threw the system to maintain even temp wich in theory will reduce localized boiling.
following me.... I am following you?
I agree to an extent. Unless the passageways for the coolant are quite large, there is always a back pressure from friction losses (that is directly related to flow). The highest pressure from the pump will be at the discharge point. If you take a pressure reading at a point that is in the downstream piping, you may not know if you have pressure loss issues (plugging) or pump discharge pressure issues (head).

I guess that flow would be a better test, but not so easily monitored.

Edit - after a long day at work, I probably should wait til tomorrow to think this hard !!
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:37 PM
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OK now Im with you. I would say tap the bottom tank and install but try this out to test the theory. get the engine up to operating temp 185 -212 and use a pyrometer to pick the best spot to tap into.
besides a pyrometer is a great tools to have.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
OK now Im with you. I would say tap the bottom tank and install but try this out to test the theory. get the engine up to operating temp 185 -212 and use a pyrometer to pick the best spot to tap into.
besides a pyrometer is a great tools to have.
I just purchased an infrared pyrometer. It is cool! Thanks for the tip again.
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