So im looking at getting a set of Stage I from beans and the install has got me curious. My cousin made it seem harder than it had to be and said some things that i hadnt heard of. I know hydrolocking the engine is a mans greatest fear when doing this and getting all the oil out of the rail and on top of the piston is key. But my cousin said there are a few drain plugs on the engine you can remove to get all the oil and fuel out so you dont hydolock it. i think he said theres two oil drain plugs and a fuel plug you have to remove and your good to go. I hadnt heard of this so i was wondering if anyone can verify this for me and maybe explain the install process that would be great.

Oh and another question i see a lot of you have IC's on your rigs and was wondering at what point in my upgrades do i need one to keep my egt's below 1200? thanks for any advice

 

Draining the oil and fuel rails before pulling injectors is helpful, but not mandatory. Once you get the valve covers and gaskets off it will be easier to understand.

Weather you pull the plugs or not, I'd recommend the same procedure to be on the safe side. Pull one injector on each side first (down hill side if there is one) to catch the majority of the fluids. Then do the injector swap. Turn the crank by hand with a breaker bar and socket before installing new injectors to squirt out the majority of the fluids. Place a rag over the injector holes before you turn the crank by hand (that oil will shoot a long way). Pull the glow plugs and install your injectors. With the glow plugs removed, unplug the CPS and pull the IDM relay (I'm ****). Then put some more rags over the glow plug holes or set the valve covers back in place and bump the starter several times to blow excess fluids out of the cylinders.

Of course since you'll be pulling the glow plugs, it's a good idea to make sure none of them need replacing before the time comes.

 

X2 and to be on the safe side once it's all back together spin the eng. by hand two hole turns and then you know for sure your not hydrolocked

 

ok thanks guys now i see why shops charge so much to do this haha. and yea the plan is to replace the glow plugs when i do the injectors just so i only have to be under there one time.so why do i pull the glow plugs and then install the injectors? and how long is bump when trying to remove the rest of the fluid?

 

when i do injectors i usually pull the back injector first(toward the firewall). thats the down hill side and catches most the oil. then pull the rest of the injectors. i never pull the drain plugs for the oil rails simply for the fear of one stripping out and it's just as easy to vacuum the cylinders out. i use this vacuum pump and it works AWESOME, Liquivac Large Engine/Project Model Oil Changing System - 3000504 | Tractor Supply Company

so once you have all the injectors out, then you can use the vacuum pump to suck the cylinders out. put the hose for the vacuum down through the injector nozzle hole and when you feel it stop then start vacuuming. It only takes me a couple minutes to do all 8 cylinders with that pump in the link above. Also you will be using the pump to drain the HPOP rez before you even pull the valve covers.

Now that you have vacuum'd the cylinders install all the injectors and torque to 12ft lbs or 120in lbs then pull the glow plugs(or you can pull the glow plugs before installing injectors, either way). for the glow plugs use a deep 10mm socket then you will need to find a piece of fuel line or something similar that fits the tip of the glow plug pretty tightly so you can slip it over the tip of the glow plug to finish threading it out. then with all the glow plugs removed you can set the VC's back on with 2 bolts holding it on snug, fill the HPOP rez, then pull the #9 and #22 fuses or leave the injectors disconnected, and then bump the starter a couple times. bump means just hit it for a split second and let of and repeat a few times and then crank it for about 5 seconds solid so you know everything is getting out of the cylinders. pull the VC's, install new glow plugs, plug in the injectors(put fuses back in), then it's all down hill from there. just put the VC's back on, check the HPOP rez to make sure it's still fill and if it's not then refill it and put the plug back in. bump the starter for insurance that everythings good, then crank it solid for about 5-10 seconds, check the HPOP rez and fill if neccessary then repeat til the truck fires. It will take a little while til the oil and fuel systems prime again so once you've let it idle for a bit and checked for leaks drive it for a few miles keeping the RPMs up a little bit(around 2000-2500RPMs) to help it prime.

 

wow travis that was a lot of info but extremely helpful. i'll probably just print that and the other info out when i go to do my injectors some time soon. thanks again

 

I thought that Jim was saying NOT to turn the motor over by hand because it'll just squirt more oil into it?

 

how is it any different than bumping the starter? just curious

 

really good info guys. it will become helpful to us planning on doing our injector rebuild.

 

I dont remember the exact measurement... But if you call a ford dealership I am sure they can get the size of allen it takes to pull the oil drain plugs...

Just did my injectors last week, pulled the oil plugs, wasnt hard at all and also did the fuel plugs on the back of the engine (had to remove the tranny line bracket for passenger side) but other than that was really easy to do...

Then I just pulled the injectors out however I wanted and dont have to worry about anything... (put grease around all three o-rings on the injector) and then once there all back in and all plugs are back in, just bump the engine like 3 times to make sure it sounds right, then crank her in 15 second intervals for like 2 minutes and she should start up with a lil puff of whtee smoke...

Then let the truck idle for 5 minutes and then drive it easy for 20-50 miles till all the air is out so you dont scar a tip...

 

so if i pull the plugs i dont have to vaccum out oil off the top of the piston? or does that still need to be done? cuase if its just an extra step than i might bot do it? which way is easir, safer, faster? thanks for the help. travis definetly repping u for the write up.

 

You still need to clean out the cylinders. I don't know if it helps much to pull the rail plugs, but I did it too. I vaccuumed mine out like travis did. I had a little syringe from the vet clinic and a piece of 1/4 inch clear line on it and just sucked it out. The injector hole is a little bigger than the glow plug hole, making it easier to use. Do the rear first for sure. 90% of my oil was back there when I pulled the rears first.

 

Incorrect, as long as you pull the oil and fuel plugs and let them drain for a good 10 minutes... then you can pull the injectors out in whatever order... once they are out use a rag and clean out the cups (the little bit of oil sitting in the cup), and then grease up the o-rings on the new injectors and pop them in... No need to use a vacuum pump unless you get really paranoid over that type of thing...

 

So why was my back cylinder full of oil then?

 

ok boy this seems to be heating up lol. but my driveway is a hill and i usually park with the nose going down hill so i would have to pull the front two injectors first? or should i put the rear and going down hill and pull the back two injectors first?