Just picked up a Engine Masters magazine, nice article on a 400, very well worth reading. Thought I'd pass it on.

 

I'll look for it but I highly doubt it will tell us anything collectivity we don't already know.

 

Other then the compression being a little high for everyday use and it being over carbureted he built an engine one could put together in his own garage or at the local re-builder. I found that interesting that so much hp and torque could be had without being too radical.

 

Either way I found it interesting that what many people call a boat anchor engine beat all the other entries in points. Seeing a old Y block in there was a surprise also.
Seems for the last 30 years that's all you see is Chevy engine build up articles, until recently it was like the writers and publishers thought that was the only engine on the planet.

 

The only thing keeping me away from the 351M/400 is the big block bolt pattern. Thankfully adapters exist to throw an AOD behind one. It'll just mean I have to shave an extra half inch or so off the driveshaft (which needs to be shortened an inch anyway).

I really enjoy seeing Kaase and SAM and others make mountains out of 335 molehills. 654hp and 615lb-ft of torque out of a 401cid engine. It's almost disgusting when you think about it. Oh, that's on a single four-barrel carb, too. These numbers are from 2008. I haven't seen 2009 or 2010 results and I bet they're even better.

I'd be happy rebuilding and freshening my 351M to pull down stock early 70s 400 numbers. Show me 172hp at the crank and 298lb-ft of torque like the '73 400. That's plenty to move a 4200lb Gran Torino. The AOD will keep the mileage in the high teens (my goal is to get better highway mileage than my wife's 2000 Durango with a 318, right now she's flirting with 19-20mpg) and the 2.75 rear will keep the engine from screaming at all. A low dull roar is all I want.

In an engine build, matching pieces to each other to build an engine that is as efficient as possible for its size is half the battle. The rest of it is knowing how far to take it without overdoing it on say, cam timing, or lift, or using too big of valves, or whatever.

 

i am looking for this magazine. i am a bit new to this and don't mean to sound ignorant but i can't seem to find it. i checked barnes and noble and searched online. i keep coming back to engine masters challenge by popular hot rodding. is this the same thing?
Engine Masters - Racing Engines & Engine Tech - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine

 

Thats it. PHR. I found it at Wal Mart.

 

I found mine at Stater Bros.

Next year's engine masters challenge will be much better. They are changing the rules to make them more "street" worthy.

 

If you're building a 351M, it would be SO easy to just make it a 400 instead.

BTW, many years ago, I almost bought on old antique mansion in Itasca. At the time it seemed like a really nice little town.

 

Itasca is a little town with a mile of interstate to patrol. They're as money hungry as any other town. I live 15 minutes the other side of Hillsboro from there and it's better here. Then again, the further south I move, the happier I get. Anyone got a line on an island on the TX gulf coast for about $50K?

I'm not sure going to 400 should be necessary to get the power I want, besides, the more I can re-use the better. Really this engine goes like stink as it is. It can roast the tires from a stop without touching the brakes on asphalt. I can hit 100 in the same amount of time my wife's Durango hits 85. That's PLENTY good enough. The adapter plate will let me put an AOD behind it, lowering highway rpms, that'll get my mileage up. And fresh lifters/rockers/pushrods will stop the clacking.

I just want it to stop going through so much dang oil. 70 miles to a quart before replacing the driver's valve cover gasket and about 90-100 miles a quart since. I need to do the passenger side, too, but I think it's the rear main that's doing most of the leaking. I'm also going to attempt to change the oil pan gasket. If I can get oil consumption/leakage down to the point where I can go a tank of fuel without worrying about the oil being low (about 380-400 miles) then I'll be happy. Because I WANT to check the oil when I fill with a full tank, not have to throw a quart or two in with every $10 of fuel. I'm also hoping the AOD swap will reduce oil consumption simply by lowering rpm's. And I can change that rear main while the FMX is out.