Hi all,
I wanted to know if I need to remove the distributor of my 1986 E-150 302 CID in order to replace the stator?

I think the hall effect sender is bad, I changed the cap/rotor & spark plug wires (Motorcraft) over the weekend I looked at the inside of the distributor & it looks to me like all I need to do to get to the stator is remove the two screws that hold the wheel that has those teeth on it & remove the stator, but my Ford shop manual says otherwise

If HOPFULLY it can be done my way can any of you give me the exact way to do this, do I need to grease any parts in there with dielectric paste? or whatever other greas is needed.

If this solves my hessitation/surging/bucking/backfiring in the filter housing box, finally dieing problem only when the engine is hot & I can duplicate this problem by leaving it in idle for 15 minutes with the lights on bright & the heater fan running on high.... If this will fix this HEAP I'm breaking a bottle of Dom Pérignon of the dam hood!!!! If not, I am seriously thinking about TOURCHING THIS BLUE HEAP!!!


Thanks allot guys

 

No you can not remove the Stator assembly without removing the Distributor and taking the shaft out in the TFI ignition system.

If you had the old Duraspark II system you could change out the Pick-Up coil in them without taking the distributor out but the newer TFI Ignition system does not have a Pick-Up coil like they did.

Replacing the Stator assembly (with the PIP sensor & Hall Effect switch inside it) will not fix the hesitation/surging/bucking/backfiring in the filter housing box but may fix the dieing when hot.

The hesitation/surging sounds more like the TPS.
The bucking/backfiring in the filter housing box sounds more like timing or the fuel mix is lean.

 

Thanks for your reply,
the TPS was replaced, timing is at 10 btdc, do you know how do i ck if the fuel mixture is right?

 

You can pull the codes and see if the computer says it is running lean (information from the O2 sensor).

 

THANKS but all i have is code 32

 

That is related to the EVP not working correctly, or the EGR valve being stuck or no longer functioning. In my experience, the computer switches the fuel ratio very lean (my truck ran like s*** when I had this issue) and you will either have to remedy the problem or get an EGR/EVP bypass kit to trick the computer.

 

Hi jjarboe01,
The EVP was replaced, I tested the EGR & its able to hold vacuum & the pintle is clean

 

Thanks jjarboe01,
If I need to get the EGR/EVP bypass kit do you know where I can get one & the part number for the kit