Hello,
My check engine light started coming on after the engine warms up recently after I changed the cap, rotor and plugs. I used one of the code readers and the codes I got were 13 and 14. Im not real worried about a code 13 because it is a engine running code and the engine wasnt running, but the code 14 indicates that 2 successive erratic profile ignition pickup(PIP) pulses occured , resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. I had read somewhere that it could be that my PIP sensor(stator) or ignition control module could be going bad. I am thinking about replacing both ( about 50$) Has anyone else had this problum and if so what did you do to fix it or could anyone offer me any advice?
Also if I replace these 2 parts it is stated that I need to remove the distributor from the engine with the engine at top dead center and use a puller to remove the distributer gear and press on the new stator(pip sensor). Could anyone give me any advice on how to best find top dead center and what tools I will need to properly remove and reinstall the the stator and distributor shaft gear?
What do I use to rotate the crankshaft in order to find top dead center? Do I use a regular socket?
Is this an imminent sign of ignition or pip failure?

The truck runs fine exept for the check engine light coming on. Should I still be driveing it?
Any advise would be greatly appreceated, Thanks

P.S 1990 f-150 inline 6

 

How does the engine run?? Does it backfire at all or does it run normal??? I would recheck the firing order

 

I wouldnt just replace parts, if you suspect the icm, take it to autozone and have them test it for free. Isnt pip tach ref?

To try and find (close to) tdc, remove #1 plug, crank engine slowly, when air puffs out #1 it should be close to tdc (give or take).

 

I usually just use the belts to turn the engine, but be sure to disconnect the battery.

 

To find top dead center: (1) Remove all spark plugs (relieves compression, making it much easier to turn over the crank), (2) using a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, turn the crank over BY HAND until the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire, (3) insert a plastic straw into the #1 cylinder so the end is resting on top of the piston, (4) rock the crank back & forth slightly while feeling the position of the #1 piston with the straw and position the piston at the top of the stroke. That's true TDC.

 

rock the crank back & forth slightly while feeling the position of the #1 piston with the straw and position the piston at the top of the stroke. That's true TDC.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Vurry important...It's possible to be 180 degrees out, if you don't look at the piston, or the valves. The timing mark will "look" normal either way...You always want to make sure the piston is up, or you can look at the valves, if by chance the cover is off. In the correct "piston up" position, both of that cyl's rocker arms will be "up".
If by chance you try to set things up with it 180 degrees off, it won't run very well.. MK

 

"Vurry important...It's possible to be 180 degrees out, if you don't look at the piston, or the valves."

True, but assuming the engine has been running and no one has pulled the distributor, you shouldn't be 180 degrees out of phase if you do Step #2 as I outlined ("get distributor rotor to point to #1 plug wire"). At 180 degrees out, the rotor won't be pointing to #1 plug wire.

No use making life more complicated than necessary.

 

Thanks alot for the advice and info I cant get it done right away because of my work schedule, but I greatly appreciate your response and will post an update as soon as posselbe.

 

LD-Machanic I have a 1990 F-150 and have replaced the modual and stator no luck on getting the code 14 out.