I'm new to the forum and new to Ford truck ownership as well...

I'll start by saying I have read all over the internet and on probably 5 different forums about people rebuilding their E4OD's over and over again with multiple problems. I'm not all that scared of my E4OD and getting it rebuilt but the difference in price to rebuild versus puting a C6 in is crazy. I have a chance to get a couple of C6's for something around $150... both working. I plan to tow cars with my truck (4.9L 1990 F-150 4x2) but I'm not willing to rebuild the E4OD. I've been quoted no less than $1800 to bring the E4OD to the shop and let them rebuild it. Ridiculous in my opinion. I'm also just not comfortable with rebuilding it myself. I'd just like to install my C6 and be done with it, no need to ask me WHY... I've already said why. I say that because I see tons of people go... "why would you want to.....".

I'm looking for people who have done it or know about doing it and I want to know what I'll need to do the swap. I know I need to get the C6 crossmember from a donor truck and my truck is the 155" wheelbase, I'll probably need a new drive shaft, but it's the two piece so do I need just the front portion from a donor truck with a C6 or the whole thing transmission back? I also would need to know how to hookup the kick-down and how to fool my computer so it does not go crazy... HELP.....

 

Honestly the kickdown is easy there is a spot for it on the throttle cable assembly your best bet for the computer would be to go get a brainbox out of a manual transmission truck or one with an aod. I would think you would only need the front portion of the driveshaft because the back portion doesnt change. Personally The only reason the E4OD tranny is so expensive to repair is because it is an electronic shift transmission. You can rebuild it yourself if you are VERY CAUTIOUS and label everything. The E4OD is pretty much a C6 with electronic shift and overdrive. I would just buy a reman E4OD because the money you save putting that c6 in would be eaten up buy the milage your truck will get on the highway without the overdrive gear.

 

Thanks for the info. I know my gas mileage would decrease substantially but since it's not an everyday driver that does not concern me as much as the maintenance portion. I thought about getting a re-manufactured trans but you're really at the mercy of whoever built it at that point. I've read and talked to tons of people with horror stories. When I say I want to tow cars, I just buy a car or two to mess with each year it seems and I'd like to be able to use the truck to go get them. Other than that it will mostly just be used to make trips to Lowes to get Sheetrock for the new house we bought and whatever else I might need a truck for. I don't really plan to drive it on the highway regularly.

What about the flywheel? Need a new one? Would I be able to find that kick-down on a similar truck with a C6? Is there no way to fool the computer instead of replacing? I've seen people talking about the wiring but they never really say what it is they do to make it work... Something about fooling it into neutral position...

 

you would need a new flexplate and you can find the kickdown on a similar truck with a c6 and you could rig the MLPS permanently into neutral or park so your truck will start but it is just easier to run another computer if you can find one at the junkyard

 

Doing a search of the junkyards around here does not turn up much of anything computer wise. Plus there are apparently like 30 different "numbers" for these computers. How would i know what would work? Does anyone know the actual process by which to fool the computer into thinking I'm in park or natural? What am I looking for to do that? Thanks for the info so far!

 

The MPLS is the manual lever position sensor. It is on the drivers side of the E4OD. Remove it from the trans and disconnect it from the shift linkage, put it into the neutral position leaving it plugged into the trucks wiring harness and zip tie it to the frame. Guy here a few months ago said it worked out OK for him.

 

I'm going to start over to get some advice on my current transmission as well. I'm not even sure the transmission itself is bad. The truck has been on a farm for the last 5 years and never came out of 2nd gear I'm sure. I bought it because I got a good deal and then I drove it 150 miles home. On my way home I noticed a kind of slow shift between gears with the little clunk sound when it did engage. Once I got about 50 miles from home I began to test it a little so I'd take off from lights a little harder. I noticed a rough sound and what felt like a slip on takeoff especially on hills. There was also a vibration at 60mph+ like a tires needing to be balanced (could still be that) but I'm thinking I could have a torque converter problem as well... I just walked outside to look under it and I see a LITTLE fluid coming from the bottom of the bellhousing.

What do you guys think it could be? Is the trans bad or should I try a new converter first? Still wouldn't mind going ahead with the swap but if enough people think the trans could be fine I might go a different route...

 

I'd suggest a fluid change in the current transmission. While you are in there you may want to install a shift kit to firm up the shifts some.

Speaking as someone with a C6 who does some heavy towing, I would prefer an extra gear. I do like the cheap heavy duty characteristics of the c6, but I'm looking to do a zf 5 speed swap instead. 3 gears leaves a lot to be desired on hills and lots of revs on the highway. A 4th gear in the e40d and a shorter diff ratio would be nice.

 

I thought I might try a fluid change, aftermarket trans cooler, and shift kit... Though none of that matters if the trans is dying. I hate this situation... Trouble is, I probably would've still bought the truck even if I'd known. I think I could deal with the C6 since we are not talking everyday driving of course. It just needs to be a workhorse when I'm ready for it 3 or 4 times a month probably.

If I do end up doing the conversion I'm having an issue figuring out the drive shaft situation. I have not been able to get under my truck and measure anything yet and the junkyard seems to be all wrong. Wouldn't the drive shaft for the same truck as mine with... say a 5.0L and C6 possibly have a different length than what I am looking for? Or would the transmission sit in the same spot regardless of engine? Does anyone know for sure if the back driveshaft is the same length regardless of whats up front?

Man... I'm taking on a monster it seems...

 

Do a fluid change in the E40D. You'll feel the difference.

The E40D is a C6 with overdrive.

 

I'll change the fluid and filter. I'll let you guys know the result. Thanks.

 

so, did the fluid n filter change work?

 

Have not got around to it yet. Crazy work schedule right now. I plan on getting to it sometime in the next 2 weeks. I'll update.

 

Alright, I wish I could inform you guys if the fluid and filter change worked but I've decided I'm not doing it at all. I'm dropping the e4od for the c6. I've ordered the 37" rear-front drive-shaft which should be exactly what I need for the c6? I measured 33" weld to weld on my current drive shaft and the c6 is exactly 4 inches shorter so I found the 37" on an 88 f-150 in Virginia and they are shipping it to me. I still have a few questions though.

Is everyone sure I have to change out the flywheel?

Will my current starter work either way?

How will I hook my cooler lines back up?

Will I have to modify my shifter linkages in any way?

At this point I know these things for sure...
I need the C6, the mount from a truck with the C6, Kickdown from a truck with a 4.9L and C6, and I need to put my MLPS in natural and zip tie it somewhere. Anything else that I have not asked about that I will need?

 

Thought of a couple of other things...

What kind of rearend is in these trucks?
What kind of fluid would the diff. take?

might as well cover everything while i'm under there.

Just so anyone everyone knows. The E4OD and C6 do indeed use the same flexplate according to O'Reilly and Advance... and the junkyard I bought my C6 from today. I don't know if that would be true for all years and models but it is with my truck.



I'm not sure anyone is going to reply to me but how am I going to hook up my natural safety switch? Or does it even have to be? I have not looked under at the E4OD but I'm guessing that is hooked up to the thing I have to tie to the frame?