U-joint in front axle
U-joint in front axle
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
I got my axle nut socket from NAPA. They have all of them there for all different Dana axles.
I believe the passenger side is the longer axle and IIRC on the 50 (probably the same as the 44) there's a coupling that connects the outer axle to the inner axle. Then there's another u-joint on the inner axle. So on the passenger side, there are two u-joints. You can use a ball joint press to press out your u-joints.
I believe the passenger side is the longer axle and IIRC on the 50 (probably the same as the 44) there's a coupling that connects the outer axle to the inner axle. Then there's another u-joint on the inner axle. So on the passenger side, there are two u-joints. You can use a ball joint press to press out your u-joints.
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Posting Guru
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I got my axle nut socket from NAPA. They have all of them there for all different Dana axles.
I believe the passenger side is the longer axle and IIRC on the 50 (probably the same as the 44) there's a coupling that connects the outer axle to the inner axle. Then there's another u-joint on the inner axle. So on the passenger side, there are two u-joints. You can use a ball joint press to press out your u-joints.
I believe the passenger side is the longer axle and IIRC on the 50 (probably the same as the 44) there's a coupling that connects the outer axle to the inner axle. Then there's another u-joint on the inner axle. So on the passenger side, there are two u-joints. You can use a ball joint press to press out your u-joints.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
From Autozone:
I was talking about that keystone clamp there and you can see the second u-joint on that side. A driveline shop told me about it when I asked about ordering ball joints.
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Remove the front wheels.
- Remove the calipers.
- Remove the hub/rotor assemblies.
- Remove the nuts retaining the spindle to the steering knuckle. Tap the spindle with a plastic mallet to remove it from the knuckle.
- Remove the splash shield.
- On the left side, pull the shaft from the carrier, through the knuckle.
- On the right side, remove and discard the keystone clamp from the shaft and joint assembly and the stub shaft. Slide the rubber boot onto the shaft and pull the shaft and joint assembly from the splines of the stub shaft.
- Place the spindle in a soft-jawed vise clamped on the second step of the spindle.
- Using a slidehammer and bearing puller, remove the needle bearing from the spindle.
- Inspect all parts. If the spindle is excessively corroded or pitted it must be replaced. If the U-joints are excessively loose or don't move freely, they must be replaced. If any shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
- Clean all dirt and grease from the spindle bearing bore. The bore must be free of nicks and burrs.
I was talking about that keystone clamp there and you can see the second u-joint on that side. A driveline shop told me about it when I asked about ordering ball joints.
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Still havent found out for sure, but were replacing the lockouts on it sometime so if that dont fix it we will dig deeper, but right now i want to get my truck fixed so his is on hold
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