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The Detroit Truetrac will be your best bet for the rear axle. It's a gear driven LSD so it won't wear out and doesn't need special fluids or rebuilding. I'd wait on the front until you get the back installed and try it. The TT works so well you may not need or want it.
Here's an option for the front: ECTED (Click for more info)
ANYTHING but ECTED!
The Ected is the worst selectable on the market.
Wow.....intense huh?
OK..it's really a bad unit. It is a clutch driven LSd that locks through the clutches. This means that there is not solid gear lock and that if the clutches wear your locker may not lock. The design of the unit is terrible. One of the sidegears (where your axle slides into) is a 2 piece design. In normal, unlocked driving (in 4wd) the axle is only being driven by about 1/2" of engagement (in locked mode it uses nearly all of the axle spline length). The locker is stripping the splines off the end of the axle shaft. My old customers are seeing a ton of warranty claims on these and people are NOT happy.
I actually prefer a TT over an ARB for our applciation because the TT works even if you don't know you need it. Very few people with this type of rig need a locker. Even most that do just need to learn to drive.
I actually prefer a TT over an ARB for our applciation because the TT works even if you don't know you need it. Very few people with this type of rig need a locker. Even most that do just need to learn to drive.
agree esp if you have TT in the front and rear diffs... you can also fool the TT into to acting almost like a locker by a bit of left foot braking to apply some resistance to the wheel that has no traction... The downside to the ARB is that Murphys law says the air system is gonna malfunction when you need it most.... I have installed quite a few of them and they are pretty reliable but will never be as reliable as a mechanical locker that requires no driver input
The Ected is the worst selectable on the market.
Wow.....intense huh?
OK..it's really a bad unit. It is a clutch driven LSd that locks through the clutches. This means that there is not solid gear lock and that if the clutches wear your locker may not lock. The design of the unit is terrible. One of the sidegears (where your axle slides into) is a 2 piece design. In normal, unlocked driving (in 4wd) the axle is only being driven by about 1/2" of engagement (in locked mode it uses nearly all of the axle spline length). The locker is stripping the splines off the end of the axle shaft. My old customers are seeing a ton of warranty claims on these and people are NOT happy.
That is intense. We don't sell many ECTEDs, so the fact that we don't have a return problem could be due to low volume. I dunno.
The clutches on an Ex Dana 50 should last forever, the unit should be idle in 2WD. Unless you leave the hubs locked on the street for tens of thousands of miles.
The returns are bad for all units. Some just don't work and others, mainly Dana 35 and Ford 8.8, just strip the end of the axle shaft. It's great idea, LSD to lock, it's just that the design is poor (actually more of a joke....WTH were the engineers thinking????) My rep told me that these units were originally designed for OE (like Jeep) to be used as computer controlled applications but were rejected. Eaton has a much better but similar version used in the Commander and Grand Cherokee called an EGerodisc.
I don't really see much use for a selectable in our rigs anyway. Few rarely use 4wd and fewer yet use low range.
I have an '01 EX non-LS, can I upgrade my stock gears to make it LS, or can I pull the brains out of a junkyard pumpkin and just plug and play, or do I need to redo all of the spacing/shiming.
Thanks, I'm differential dumb, so any help or pointed directions appreciated.
I have an '01 EX non-LS, can I upgrade my stock gears to make it LS, or can I pull the brains out of a junkyard pumpkin and just plug and play, or do I need to redo all of the spacing/shiming.
Thanks, I'm differential dumb, so any help or pointed directions appreciated.
-drunken
The "gears" are not what you upgrade, but I get your question. The problem with the oem LS is that it wears out too early, giving you an open diff. If you find one in the junk yard, and you check out that it has the same gearing, it is easier to just replace the axle, because yes you will have to shim, and when you go that far to replace you usually replace the bearings while your in there. The last thing you want is for them to fail after doing all that work. The true trac is the better option if you want a LS. Mine still works like a champ.