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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #31  
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From: Fort Campbell, KY
Originally Posted by 7.3bo-ti-etr
Put diesel in and still same thing. Runs and then just shuts off driver side brake light out but that couldnt be it lol
Will it idle all day, and dies only when you hit the skinny? Maybe something has gone sideways in the pedal assembly.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #32  
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The truck idles fine and will die after about 30-45 seconds i can press the pedal to the floor and make it hit the rev limiter, But as soon as it hits like 30-45 seconds it dies. Then after about 5-10mins you can restart the truck and it will run for 30-45 seconds and then dies.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 09:31 PM
  #33  
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the fuel filter is maybe 3 weeks old, i have drained the bowl, it fills up fine. the only mods to the truck are 6637 mod, muffler delete exhaust 90s out before the rear tire, 50 cent mod, thats every thing its got me so stumped.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 07:54 AM
  #34  
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From: Fort Campbell, KY
Originally Posted by 7.3bo-ti-etr
The truck idles fine and will die after about 30-45 seconds i can press the pedal to the floor and make it hit the rev limiter, But as soon as it hits like 30-45 seconds it dies. Then after about 5-10mins you can restart the truck and it will run for 30-45 seconds and then dies.
Ok, that's not bad... if you can reproduce that condition my vote is fuel related. I know the pump is on, but is it operating in spec? Time to hook up a pressure gauge and see what the readings are.

Another option would be to disconect the suction side of the pump, and temporarily plumb it to another fuel source (5 gal bucket) and test again. This would rule out problems with your in tank pickup. One more thing, just before the engine dies, does the "sound" of the engine change? More of a metalic "clack" as it's chocking out?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:16 PM
  #35  
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Just shuts right off as if I turned the key off
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:37 PM
  #36  
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My vote is for a failing IPR. You will need AE or another advanced scan tool to look at duty cycle and ICP.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bdrummonds
My vote is for a failing IPR.
That makes more sense to me than fuel. If it was fuel related wouldn't it be hard to restart as you basically just ran it out fuel prior.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #38  
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What it the ipr
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 09:25 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 7.3bo-ti-etr
What it the ipr
IPR = injection pressure regulator, it basically controls how much oil pressure is driving the injectors. It is a sliding valve with an electromagnet on the back side of the HPOP (high pressure oil pump). It is both an electronic, and mechanical part, and to the naked eye you may not ever be able to tell a bad one from a good one.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 09:25 PM
  #40  
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So unhooked the batteries and now the truck will not start at all. Left the key on for 20 minutes and then tryed to start it and nothing
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 10:01 PM
  #41  
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Every single fuse is good. how could unplugging the batteries cause it to now not start
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 11:34 PM
  #42  
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Could be the CPS (cam position sensor)
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 08:56 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 7.3bo-ti-etr
Every single fuse is good. how could unplugging the batteries cause it to now not start
Is it turning over, and not starting, or is it not doing anything when you turn the key? Is your service engine light on. Does the tach move when you try to crank the engine?

The IPR can go out in an instant just as any other electrical part can. It may not be related to your 6637 swap, or unhooking the batts, it might have just been time. Unfortunatley the only way to tell if the IPR is bad is to use AE to monitor real time data during the cranking event.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 09:54 AM
  #44  
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Like Brandon said, you reallly are at the point that you need a good diagnostics scanner. However if one is not available and you have a hydraulic supply store in your area you can have a HPO gage made.

You will need a 3500 PSI liquid filled gage, 4-8 ft(do you want it in the cab with you while cranking?) of 4000psi rated hose, and a #5 ORB fitting to tap into the High Pressure Oil Rail. The entire setup shouldn't cost more $100.

Whether it is electronic or mechanical, your truck needs at least 500psi before the PCM will attempt to fire the injectors.

Just one other thought real quick, Just for kicks, unplug your ICP sensor located ont he front drivers side corner at the High Pressure Oil Rail. This will cause the PCM to go into a default lookup table. If there is some chance that the ICP is failing and not showing the PCM at least 500 psi, the PCM will not even try to fire the injectors. Unplugging it will bypass that.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #45  
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Cranks over just no fire now
 
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