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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:44 PM
  #16  
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Combat Engineering
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thanks guys im gonna go gheck the GPR right now. Oh, the truck has 119K on it.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #17  
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Its about 30 degress outside. I checked battery voltage at both battereies and they were around 12.22VDC. I then checked voltage at terminal 2 on the GPR, it was about 12.11V. Then I checked voltage at terminal #4 just to make sure, and it said 0. I then turned the key to the on position went back and checked terminal #4, still 0. I was hearing the buzz like I normally do, so I grabbed a soft plastic mallet and wacked the top of the GPR (wacked in the gentlest manner), the buzzing instantly droipped to a lower tone, and there was about 11.9V at terminal #4. I was so excited I hit my head on the hood and almost fell of the shop chair I was standing on. I went back to the key and it cranked perfectly.

You guys nailed it. Ill order a GPR tonight.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 05:23 PM
  #18  
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ron's power stroke
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glad we could help....
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 06:12 PM
  #19  
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From: Fort Campbell, KY
Originally Posted by Combat Engineering
Its about 30 degress outside. I checked battery voltage at both battereies and they were around 12.22VDC.
Well I don't know if you've been cranking on the engine, or had the door open a lot, but that voltage is LOW (like ~50% state of charge). At rest you want to see at least 12.5 (12.6x better) Just sayin.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #20  
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LOL Combat.

When you replace your relay, don't over tighten the main terminal nuts.

It's something like 65 in. lbs. that you should aim for.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:59 PM
  #21  
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Thanks for the heads up. The voltage did seem a little low to me also. I did have the doors open for about 4 hrs replacing the door lock solenoids. The batteries are about 2 years old. Ill probably take em out and clean em real well then recharge on a trickle charge. Thanks.
 
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