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Door Lock Actuator

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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #16  
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Okay, went in today, pulled the lock atuator out again, drilled out the top Plastic rods and replaced them with 6-32 screws with nuts.. we shall see.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 07:29 AM
  #17  
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Yes I do have tree saws, plus a grand prix lock out kit. Only reason for my theory is when I ripped the door apart to install the new actuator I stuck the old one back in and fooled around with it. Once I pushed the unlock button the motor stuck and pass side door started locking and unlocking, plus the fact that I manually unlocked the truck and stuck my arm to the ignition to start then closed the door. There was no way for me to push the lock down to lock the door. I noticed the aftermarket actuators are designed better more beefy. I only paid $30 shipped to my house from a company here in mass.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 07:38 AM
  #18  
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Also I don’t know if the computer may have been involved with this, if the motor stuck did the computer sense that and try to get it unstuck but lock and unlocking the doors? I am mechanical but I don’t know a thing about a vehicle computer. All i know, it was bad timing on a cold day with the wife putting in her two cents, plus an hours worth of the death stare from inside!
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 09:12 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by sjgordo
Yes I do have tree saws, plus a grand prix lock out kit. Only reason for my theory is when I ripped the door apart to install the new actuator I stuck the old one back in and fooled around with it. Once I pushed the unlock button the motor stuck and pass side door started locking and unlocking, plus the fact that I manually unlocked the truck and stuck my arm to the ignition to start then closed the door. There was no way for me to push the lock down to lock the door. I noticed the aftermarket actuators are designed better more beefy. I only paid $30 shipped to my house from a company here in mass.
Where in MA are you? I am in Bridgewater but spend most weekends Concord.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 09:24 AM
  #20  
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That is strange, dont think the pcm has anything to do with the door locks. Do you have an alarm or remote lock device?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:56 AM
  #21  
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Agreed, I dont see anything that the PCM would have done..
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #22  
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I was going to do this mod this week, has anyone else done this "rebuild" of lock actuators and had problems with it?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 12:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 64F260
I was going to do this mod this week, has anyone else done this "rebuild" of lock actuators and had problems with it?
Replaced mine a over a year ago with these Ford Excursion Power Door Lock Actuator at 1AAuto.com still going strong and were cheap.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:50 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by njneer1
Replaced mine a over a year ago with these Ford Excursion Power Door Lock Actuator at 1AAuto.com still going strong and were cheap.
Bought mine the same place cheap and built better then factory.

I only have the keyless remote, maybe it was a freak thing with my truck.

magawatt0, I live just south of worcester couple towns from the rhode island border.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 03:31 AM
  #25  
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Rebuilt mine today. A bit of a learning curve on the first one but still went smoothly. instead of using a pair of needle nose to open the gator jaws use a screw driver to seperate the two jaws at once. insert the blade horizontally and then twist the blade vertical to open both plastic flippers at the same time. worked real slick for me.
Closed up the case with a pop rivet and a couple of wire ties. took 2 hours to do both doors. Well worth the effort.
When you have the door apart, spray some spray grease in the bottom seam of the door to displace any water that may be in there.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 03:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sjgordo
Also I don’t know if the computer may have been involved with this, if the motor stuck did the computer sense that and try to get it unstuck but lock and unlocking the doors? I am mechanical but I don’t know a thing about a vehicle computer. All i know, it was bad timing on a cold day with the wife putting in her two cents, plus an hours worth of the death stare from inside!

yes we all know the death stare!

so this fix is for when you hit your locks and one of them dont unlock all the way? and you have to pull the lock thing up manually?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 05:45 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by sjgordo
.

magawatt0, I live just south of worcester couple towns from the rhode island border.
You will have to join us for one of our GTG then. We have them once a month in CT the next one is planned for March 20th. Getting together with our FTE brothers is always a good time!!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #28  
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b-uno, that is correct, this is to fix the "weak" actuators that you can hear working, and maybe it moves the lock a little, but not enough. It is warm and sunny, so I am about to go tackle this project today!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #29  
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The links, if they work, are real helpfull, and the job is a breeze. I am glad whom ever wrote this up and spent that much time writting everything done.. IT was as easy ans they wrote it..

9/32 sockett and T27 torx is the only thing I think that they left out..

By the way, I used a 1/8 bit and 6/32 screws for my screw up..
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 03:45 PM
  #30  
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I did this mod a few weeks ago but my drivers side is backwards (locks when you hit unlock and unlocks when you hit lock). How do I fix this?
 
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