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1 ton's in a bronco

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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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1 ton's in a bronco

im swaping 1 tons in my 78 bronco dana 60 front and sterlin 10.25 in the rear does anyone know if the springs line up in the rear? and the front im doing a 4 link set up so i can use the coil springs comments and suggestions are always welcome
nick
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 08:51 AM
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oh and the axles are out of a 89 f-series
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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If you goin coils in the front, would make since to do coils in the rear....
Just sayin.
As for springs lining up, wont happen.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:46 AM
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Costly sounding build...
Four link's are expensive.
As are superchargers and stroker kits.

Yeah, I agree with Don, if your going coils front, might as well do coils rear.
The springs wont' line up.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 11:00 AM
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Not only are 4-links spendy even using cheap stuff, but if you use REAL parts, not tractor links and B.S. its even more expensive.

Lets not even get into the complexities of setting up a properly working 4-link.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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wtf are you guys talking about? stop repeating everyone that posts before you prozon. Yes the rear springs line up fine.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Paul, aren't the frame width's different?
from a 90's frame to a late 70's?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:49 PM
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Nope, Paul has a Sterling 10.25 under the rear of his 79 Bronco. The difference is in rear width/spring pad location is with the newer stupid duties. So the rear is no problem if you want to keep leaf springs. As for the front, check the tech thread, and you'll see what we did to put a mid 80's D60 using the factory coil/radius arm setup in his bronco....




Doesn't anyone read the sticky's anymore???
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:59 PM
  #9  
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I read the threads in the stickies when they were created...
I knew there was a width difference somewhere...
Owell i dont claim to be an expert, i do know i has a 10.25 in the rear, i just need a 60 to match it in the front...
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 06:05 AM
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A little FYI, rear frame widths are the same from 73 till 98 except: 97/98 f150's, Hi boys and trucks that came from factory with no bed/flat bed. According to curt mfg.

What kinda of 4 link and steering do you plan to run? Pavement pounder?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Bender99
A little FYI, rear frame widths are the same from 73 till 98 except: 97/98 f150's, Hi boys and trucks that came from factory with no bed/flat bed. According to curt mfg.

What kinda of 4 link and steering do you plan to run? Pavement pounder?
Actually up till 97, Ford never officially built a F250hd in 98 (they did make a light duty but it's an F150 with an overload spring for all intents and purposes and is based off the F150 totally)

They built the 97s late then came out with the 99 superduties early.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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i plan on doing a high steer kit with heim joints and eventually hydro assist and its more of a 3 link i suppose 2 lower arms and one upper and a trac bar we did the same set up on my buddies early 90's explorer and its had no issues im just wondering if i should use the .25 think wall tubing or the .375 thick tubing the set up is gonna run me about 400-450
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 01:15 AM
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Please let me know how you plan to get away with only spending 450!

I have $2.50 short of $500 in joints alone for all my steering and links (12 total) and I got a good deal on all of them from ruffstuff. DOM tubing is gonna probly gonna be about $350, Idk I haven't bought it yet. I'll be using .375 for the lower links and .25 for the top link, steering, and track bar.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 01:28 AM
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I wouldn't even consider using .25 for your lower bars. Little jeeps and toyota's use that and they sleeve it. I used .5 for my lowers
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 06:05 AM
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You spent $500 ror your ends because you went to a 4wd place that has serious mark ups. Next time check places like rod end supply and get them cheaper
 
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