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Thanks Starmilt. That's what I though also, but the crew here at the shop all had a different opinion. That's why I came to the people on this forum. The engine comes out as soon as I'm back in the states. I don't know what it's going to cost to rebuild, but it's going to happen... I rebuilt a 460 to put in it and after rebuilding it, I decided to put it in my Bronco in place of the 302.
Can the heads be done while the engine is still in the truck or does it have to come out? I'm not sure I can lift the head out myself, so should I use a cherry picker, after removing the hood?
And if the heads are off, and the engine needs rebuilt, can I get the engine out without the heads on? Where would I mount the lifting brackets or chain?
Yes to both questions, and a few years ago I would have done it in the truck. Now however I would pull the motor to do the heads (I'm not near as stought as I used to be)
Plus it would be a good time to change any seals and service the oil cooler while it is out.
Thanks Starmilt. I didn't want to admit that I'm way too old and feeble to pull the heads while the engine is still in. Although I can still bench 57lbs., I think lifting those heads will cause a sudden hemorrhagic expansion in my personal exhaust system not easily rectified by a new *** gasket.
Wrong, Star. I'M too old and feeble to do it. I'm like mistakenID. Except I think about things for about 5 minutes then forget what I was thinking about until my wife reminds me. Which, as we both get older, is taking longer and longer for her to do. Right now I'm up to around three years on this truck.
IIRC from my schooling the next step after getting low compression on a cylinder is to skirt some oil in the low cylinder and see if the compression increases. If the compression increases with a skirt of oil (oil temporarily seals between the rings/cylinder walls) than the rings or cylinder walls are likely at fault but if compression does not change than the valves are the likely fault.
Does this method hold true for diesels or am I just not remembering correctly?
Careful you might hydrolock it and need more than a valve job. It would be rare for the rings to be reading 0 comp unless the piston is badly scored, and that usually has either sone noise along with it or blowby in time with one hole and will be visable when you pull the head.
I don't know what hydrolock is but it sounds bad. Would the truck run with that? I had it running when I parked it in'08 or so. That was when it started smoking and all that. It wasn't till last week when I checked the compression on it. I was able to get it started (without WD40) and move it into the garage and it pretty much started right up (after about five minutes of off and on with the ignition.)
Hydroloc is when you have liquid in a cylinder since these motors are around 20 to1 compression and liquid does not compress there is no room for liquid, so it effectively stops the piston and many times bends the rod to make room and also lifts the head a lot of the time. (not good). with ) compression it should either go by the bad valve still leaveing 0 comp or go by the rings and bring the compression up( probably not all the way) with out hurting anything. I am just leary putting any liquid in a diesels cylinder.
Thanks Cruickie but I'm done testing this thing. I need to get it running so regardless of whether its the valves or pistons, I have to pull the engine. I don't have enough time at home to do any of the work on it other than assembling when I get the chance.
I just don't want to go to a shop and buy everything on the shelf just because their mechanic says I need it. So when I get leave and can come home I want to know what to look for.
I can tell when a valve is bad or when the cylinders are scored, but I don't know what some of the terminology is that is used like hydrolock, cavitation, etc. and what to look for and what these problems do to an engine.
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