Ok, here's the scoop.

I have a 72 ford highboy w/ 390 and a Holley 2300.

Truck sat for said, 3 years (looked more like 10) with fuel in it. I'll be straight up, I was impatient so when I got it home I dumped a little fuel in the carb and it fired right up. I have since ran all the turpentine fuel out of it and replaced the filters and now it's running fairly clean gas.

Replaced the fuel pump, and still did not clean the tank out. fired up and idled great but would bog out with any throttle. Then I "rebuilt" it myself . I don't know much about carbs. The carb kit came with main jet valve, metering diaphram, and all the gaskets. I cleaned up the float well and checked for any holes, and all seemed good.

I adjusted the float as per dry spec, and then installed the carb. it idled well, but high and also would still choke out and try to die with any throttle.
I tried to adjust the fuel level while idling, but couldn't get any fuel to come out the overflow (no matter how much I adjusted the level.) Went out a few days later and couldn't get it to run, finally got it after pumping it several times and will only "run" when the gas pedal is pretty much floored and it was spewing dark smoke, and smelled like fuel BAD. But it's spittering and sputtering terribly.

I don't want to replace the plugs until I figure out the fuel problem. Although I did pull them and clean them all thoroughly.

I have new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser READY to install.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated, as I have a very open mind.
thanks in advance

 

Pump the throttle and see if the accelerator pump is pumping any fuel into the carb. Sounds like either the accelerator pump isn't working or the power circuit is clogged with varnish.

 

I agree with Krewat, accelerator pump or power valve. I would suspect the accerlerator pump or a stuck check valve or a plugged passage or squirter nozzle above the throttle bores. rexandfx, carburators are real simple, all they do is mix the fuel and air. Oh and Holley carbs a KISS simple.

 

well, today I took off the acc. pump, and made sure there was no blockage in the passage ways.
With it off the float bowl you can push it in and it rebounds like it should, once I put it on the metering block and bolt it down, you press it in and it takes about 2-3 full seconds before it will rebound. I thought the bowl gasket might have been blocking the port so I clear some extra gasket material off, but it's still doing the same thing.

after I took it off and reset the float to the dry setting, and lubed up the acc pump a little, I reinstalled the carb, and it fired right up with no pumping needed. then after a few seconds it need some throttle, then a few more seconds and it was *******/ spittering and sputtering, again, and needed pretty much floored to stay running And again spewing dark fuel enriched smoke.

 

What you are describing is classic Holley carb issue. If it has back fired, even once, you have more than likely blown the power valve. There should have been one in the kit but some of the off brand ones don't have them. Replace it and while you are at it, install a power valve protector kit and never have to deal with the back fire problem again.

I would also suspect that your check valve leading from the float bowl to the accelerator pump is stuck closed and you still have a plugged passage between the pump and the squirter.

 

Wait man! you shouldn't be mad, you figured it out. Whatever you did cleaned up the problem, then more bad gas got it screwed up again. Id try doing what you did, then hooking up the feed line to a small tank of gas like what you have for your lawnmower. If the same things happen, then maybe I'm wrong. Also what is your vacuum at the carb? If you're running a spacer or there's a vacuum leak this kinda stuff can happen.

 

(I would also suspect that your check valve leading from the float bowl to the accelerator pump is stuck closed and you still have a plugged passage between the pump and the squirter.)

You know I actually didn't clean the little steel ball which would be the check valve, that might very well be stuck closed.

Also for the power valve, the kit I installed came with a new one, and I installed that, I did look over the diaphragm on that today and I didn't notice any visible damage. Although I did receive a pretty massive backfire in it yesterday.

 

I will probably try running to a tank again. Although I just don't think that is my particular issue. When I first installed the new fuel pump, I did run in for a while from a gas can and even then it really started ******* out. BUT and this is a big one...... that was before the rebuild so this could be a whole new matter, and like you said it did work for a minute there.... soo... ya... tomorrow I'll fiddle a bit with the check ball, and then hook up to a clean tank of fuel, and since a buddy will be here tomorrow we'll pull the tank and throw some chain in there and shake it around or something... and then I can blow out the fuel line also.

Thanks to all for the advice and insight..... keep it coming.

 

Take the power valve out and make certain the gasket is sealing properly, they use 3 different ones I think , Also sometimes the retainer clip for the float gets put on wrong and it usually floods real bad so I doubt thats your problem but its easy to check

 

I'm surprised a bad power valve would make it run so poorly, but you may consider another just for the sake of making sure. Mine blew years back and the only thing I ever noticed was going down to 5 or 6 miles to the gallon. I'd be making sure the seat and needle assembly are good, too. If that needle has a visible ridge in it or has hardened up real bad, you may consider a new one.

 

I've seen blown power valves cause all sorts of issues. I've seen the necessity to close the idle mixture screws down to 1/2 turn to clear closed. I've seen one guy that solved it by just cranking up the idle speed. In all cases, gas mileage sucked. But I have never heard of anyone claiming it caused nothing but poor mileage.

 

Dunno, it was about 5 years ago when I was still in high school and quite inexperienced. I remember I drove it at least a few tanks like that, but don't remember much in the ways of a driveability issue. Maybe a bit of extra intake backfire when cold...

Oh! Go figure, I post and remember I did drop the float level for a day or two at the recommendation of my auto shop teacher. I probably dropped it to half what it was.