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I have a 86 f-150 and just had the front end rebuilt. Took it to have it realigned and it drives great. Only problem is the looseness of the steering. Everything is tight, I checked but there seems to be slack in the steering box and I don't see anywhere to tighten up the slack. Do these steering boxes wear out unusually fast or is there an adjustment I haven't found? Oh, yea, it's got factory power steering. If it needs to be replaced, can I do it myself or does it take some super expensive tool(s) that only your Ford dealer has?
Thanks for the input, Bud in AZ
took it to the car wash and sprayed the crud off of the joint and it is loose but not torn anywhere.Does the shaft it's mounted to slide up the steel shaft after you loosen it from the steering gear to remove it?
I have an 1986 F250 4x4 & it has an adjustment nut & screw on the top of the box. But at 126,000 miles my steering box was wore out. It is common for these years to wear out early. As for changing them it just takes regular hand tools. three mounting bolts & the bolt that holds the shaft to the box, the bolt that holds the pitman arm on the box. May need to use a hammer to remove it or to drive a wedge in to spread it a bit to get it to slid off. Power steering hoses. It took me about 30 minutes to change mine.
Craig
My truck wandered badly when I first got it too. The kingpins & rod-ends etc were all tight but the slack was in the steering box.
There's a proper torque setting & procedure for adjusting them to avoid damage (adjuster & locknut on top as kermmydog mentioned). The Haynes manual outlines it.
Tightening mine made a night & day difference. I would still gain a bit more by replacing the rag joint.
No special tools required for the adjustment. The steering should have about a inch of play, inch and a half at most. Hold the center screw with a large driver and brake the locknut loose. Turn the center screw about a quarter of a turn and lock the nut back down. Drive the truck and see if that has fixed your problem. Repeat the process if there is still excessive play.
To do a 'by the book' job, you need a inch/pound torque wrench so the wormshaft preload can be set - for memory, I think 14 inch-pounds resistance as you turn through the straight ahead position, with the pitman disconnected.
If the adjustment is too tight, the box can suffer.