Need help with fuel gauge
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Need help with fuel gauge
Hey everyone. I have done some searching on this issue, but everybody's issue seems to be different than mine. I have a 1996 F-250 and my fuel gauge for my front tank doesn't work. It reads empty all the time with no jumping or floating of any kind. However, my rear tank's fuel gauge works. But when I switch to my rear tank, the truck dies like it's not getting anymore fuel a few seconds after switching. I don't really know where to start so could anyone point me in the right direction? I'm kind of lost on this.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Sounds exactly like what my 1990 F-150 with dual tanks was doing.
The pump on the rear tank was weak and wasn't putting out enough pressure. So the engine wouldn't run on that tank.
The sending unit on the front tank had a hole in the float... so it wouldn't. Tank always read empty.
I ended up pulling the bed off and replacing both fuel delivery modules.
The pump on the rear tank was weak and wasn't putting out enough pressure. So the engine wouldn't run on that tank.
The sending unit on the front tank had a hole in the float... so it wouldn't. Tank always read empty.
I ended up pulling the bed off and replacing both fuel delivery modules.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
No problem.
You can drop the tanks.... but usually if you're pulling both pumps the bed route is easier.
Another thing to consider is that if you just replace the bad pump, you can fill both tanks up and then drive the front tank until it runs empty. Then just switch to the tank where the gauge works. That's what I did and it worked out great.
You can drop the tanks.... but usually if you're pulling both pumps the bed route is easier.
Another thing to consider is that if you just replace the bad pump, you can fill both tanks up and then drive the front tank until it runs empty. Then just switch to the tank where the gauge works. That's what I did and it worked out great.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Alright, everyone. I am now the proud owner of a new fuel tank and a new fuel pump. I found out the fuel tank was bad as soon as I poured the gas out and it came out rusty colored. I looked in the tank and just shook my head. Now that I have it all back together, the fuel gauge for the rear tank reads WAAAY past full. The whole point to dealing with the rear tank was to have a tank with a working fuel gauge. I'm stumped. Any suggestions out there?
Bradley
Bradley
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver BC Canada
Check your ground connections. I think a pegged gauge usually indicates bad ground connection. If you can recheck the connection between the harness and your new pump. Then follow the ground wire back.
My 0.02
My 0.02
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
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Thank you much, sir. I don't know if this helps, but it did work before. BTW I wanted to do the bronco tank swap, but I already had the fuel pump here and paid for. Thanks for the writeup. Would you happen to know where the ground would be for this? I'm going to start from the connection on the pump. Again, thank you.
Bradley
Bradley
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