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I have a Kenmore Elite dishwasher. It washes fine but the "Sanitized" light flashes after a cycle which appears to indicate that the heater element is functioning correctly. According to the schematic, the heater should be 10-35 Ω. It tests at 9.7 Ω.
Any appliance guys with any ideas?
According to Sears, the heater is NLA. The unit is about five years old, made by Whirlpool.
I've never gotten more than five years out of a dishwasher and I don't consider them worth repairing. I've owned two whirlpools in 10 years. I throw them away when they begin to malfunction and buy a new one.
That's what my friend who manages a Sears service center told me. But, running the model number of the machine (both on Sears and Whirlpool sites) comes back as the part is NLA, not the part number. I was able to find a couple distributors that have the part but they are online and I hate the thought of buying a $100 part online and finding out it doesn't fit right.
At this point I am more wondering about whether I am even looking at the right cause. The resistance shows it is technically out of range but 9.7 is real close to 10.....
0.3 ohms is negligible. Your meter could have that much error to it. I'd look elsewhere. From what I've ever heard, there are two types of dishwashers out there--Kitchenaids and all the rest. I actually picked up a free Kitchenaid last year that was 25 years old to replace a 10-15 year old GE that I was tired of fixing the door springs on (3 times in less than 2 years).
Jason - I was thinking the same thing about the meter but it has been tested as very accurate when compared to some known values and other meters. 0.3Ω is pretty small but it may be enough to put it out of expected range and cause the error light to flash as it is doing.
Don - I think that is one of the sites I have looked at. I am debating whether to buy the part and hope for the best or pay the $75 diagnostic charge and hope they can tell exactly what is wrong. Then I can order the part and put it in myself rather than having to pay Sears to come back and put it in after they order the part and mark it way up.
Or, I could yank the dishwasher completely and put a cabinet back in there like it was when I bought the house......
I've gotten a couple free dishwashers on CL that lasted a while- Beats putting in a cabinet.
Both houses I bought with my wife had original kitchens in them and neither had a dishwasher. I lost a very valuable cabinet to put this one in. I'd rather have the cabinet. As for Craigslist, all I meet on there are crazy people and potential scammers.
Yeesh, our Kitchen Aid dishwasher is over 20 years old, and is still going strong. Can't believe new ones only last ~5 years?
I think the big difference is the old ones had mechanical timers and much simpler insides in general. I rechecked and the machine is actually almost six. Still....it wasn't overused and never abused. Just ticks me off.
Thanks for all the advice. I'll probably have it looked at and maybe bite the bullet and have it fixed once.
I honestly think that with most electronics anymore, including dishwashers, tv's, freezers, they just are not worth putting money into. Some of the expensive or top of line models of course I would fix but for a normal $350-$450 dishwasher, not worth it. I'd rather put the money toward a new more efficient unit.
Some of the expensive or top of line models of course I would fix but for a normal $350-$450 dishwasher, not worth it. I'd rather put the money toward a new more efficient unit.
What sucks is that this wasn't a cheap machine. It was $674 including tax and delivery back in July 2004. It is an energy efficient, water saver, stainless steel tank model. Lesson learned there. Next one I buy will be the cheapo version.
What sucks is that this wasn't a cheap machine. It was $674 including tax and delivery back in July 2004. It is an energy efficient, water saver, stainless steel tank model. Lesson learned there. Next one I buy will be the cheapo version.
I always get the middle of the road whirlpool models. The seem to run about $350-$400. No real frills, no stainless steel and it doesn't have 900 buttons. Just the basic wash, rinse, dry and sanitize features. The lower end machines have the same timers, electronics and mechanicals as the high end models.
I always get the middle of the road whirlpool models. The seem to run about $350-$400. No real frills, no stainless steel and it doesn't have 900 buttons. Just the basic wash, rinse, dry and sanitize features. The lower end machines have the same timers, electronics and mechanicals as the high end models.
Yep, the stainless steel seemed like a good idea at the time. Guess having a 25 year tub with five year electronics doesn't make too much sense.
The machine I have still works fine on most modes so I'll run it for a while longer. I may be doing my kitchen over this year anyway. Maybe swap it out then.