I tow a 9500 lbs (scale weight loaded) 30' fifth wheel RV with my 2002 F350 spr cab 4x4 automatic with a V10.

I have been having problems with the front rotors warping after one summer of use (6000 miles). I typically use it in Minnesota, but make an annual trip to the Rocky Mountains once a year. I use low gear when descending usually, but have had brake rotor problems the last two trips. I have check my camper brakes and they are fine. Camper is new and happened with old camper also. I have a tendancy to take the two lane steeper roads.

I am running the best pads from the local O'Reilly. I am now looking at drilled/slotted rotors, but have heard mixed reviews from both.

Does anyone have any advice?

Thanks

 

First I would start taking a wider, shallower roads.

I would get the premium rotors but NOT the slotted/drilled. If you are changing them yourself, are you "running/breaking in" the new pads/rotors? After you have the new ones on, run the vehicle (make sure you do this on an empty road) up to about 45-50MPH and hit the brakes as hard as you can without the anti-locks coming on (if you have them) and not skidding the tires.....do NOT come to a full stop....let 'em keep rolling. Do this 4-5 times, then run the vehicle for a while so the brakes will cool normally . This may be all you have to do.

I would also double check that your trailer brakes are coming just before or AT the same time as your truck brakes and they do actually help you slow. On dirt, the trailer brakes should slide if you push the manual brake hard on. If they don't, they are not being applied aggressively enough. Have you checked that the trailer is getting full voltage at the brakes?

That's all I can think of for now....I'm sure others will be along to offer more......

BTW, posts like this make me really appreciate the tow/haul feature of my '05 PSD!

 

Do you have brakes on all 5er's axles?

Steve

 

Yes, brakes on both axles and they all work good.

 

I'm sorry but this is REALLY bad advice.

New pads and rotors need to be broken in, no question about it. But this is 100% the wrong way to do it, and this is more likely than not to cause problems.

New brakes run about 10% - 15% hotter during the break-in process. This means that if you come to a panic stop the pads and rotors are getting hotter than they normally would, and this can lead to warped rotors and burned pads.

The correct procedure for braking in new pads is to anticipate your stops really well and not jam on the brakes in a panic stop for the first 200 miles or so. No towing and no heavy loads. If you put new pads on, drive home, hook up the 5er and take off for the weekend you're asking for brake problems.

 

If you are having warped rotors or hard spots (commonly confused with warped rotors) make sure that your caliper slide pins are free and lubricated properly. Don't ride your brakes in the mountains but instead brake really hard and slow your speed down and then coast and let the brakes cool also downshift your truck into a lower gear.

After installing a set of premium Wagner brakes in my truck I experienced really bad brake fad in the mountains and noise all the time. I now run Carbon Metallic pads from Performance Friction, no fad and they are quite with superior stopping ability.

Denny

 

Here's some additional info on bedding-in new pads/rotors:

Instructions for bedding in your brakes

Steve

 

Hi Skattracker,

Since you had the problem with two campers, it seems unlikely your camper is the problem, and you have checked the brakes on the camper.

If you have a clamp-on meter, take the amp draw to your trailer brakes after your seven pin and see what kind of draw you are getting with manual full strength. You need to know amps when hitched. Most RV centers have a tester they can plug in and read the amps. Takes about 30 seconds.

I see this problem somewhat frequently in rigs running steep grades as the truck brakes have to carry more weight on the downhill run. They do perfectly fine on the level. Since you know you are overheating your tow vehicle brakes, it would suggest too much is being asked of them.

When your controller is dialed up, if you hit it manually, it should just about throw you through the windshield. I am not suggesting you set it that way, but I am betting there is a problem with the balance between your truck and trailer brakes.

I would never argue against premium brakes, but the combination you are describing should be able to handle the situation. Lots of folks are running in the mountains without making changes to their equipment.

I have always been told new brakes are to be bedded in gently, so I would second earlier comments in that regards, unless something has changed in brake technology I am not aware of.

If the grades are long and steep, try taking a less ambitious route, if possible.

It's gotta be a pain going through rotors at this rate!

Good luck,

Steve

 

Denny,

I have looked at, and I am planning to buy the carbon metalic pads (they disapate heat better), but what type of rotors are you running?

 

Steve,

I have only gone through two sets on this truck, but I am planning another trip to Utah in April, so I want to get it set up right. I know that should take different routes, but I have a tendancy to prove to people that I can run those routes, I know many others who run the same route, but they have Dsl and jake brakes.

 

I'm running stock rotors, in fact they are the original rotors.

Denny

 

Refer to:

Instructions for bedding in your brakes


Not BAD ADVISE, but a difference of opinion.

 

Pad break-in is manufacturer-specific. Meaning different pads have different break-in procedures. That link refers to high-performance racing pads. Racing pads are designed to withstand much higher temperatures and therefore the procedure for more conventional pads is much different.

While we're throwing around links, here's one that supports my opinion: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

It seems that most manufacturers recommend AVOIDING heavy braking during the break-in period. Just like I said.

Again - for clarity's sake - take it easy on new pads while they are breaking in. This is a general rule - each pad manufacturer has different break-in procedures. Check with the pad manufacturer for their recommendation.

Universally suggesting that all new pads are to be broken in with the procedure you described above is BAD ADVICE.

 

Guys,

I did not want to start a spat over brake pad break in. I have done many of my own brake jobs on everything from small cars to semi tractors & farm tractors. I just have never had this problem. I do not think it is from improper break in, just improper equipment.

I spoke to a local brake wharhouse ( very good advice in past) and he said it is probably from using ceramic pads. He said ceramic pads do not disapate heat, like a metallic pad.

 

I wasn't trying to start an argument, I was just correcting some misinformation so you don't break your pads in the wrong way and come back here with more problems.

I think it's pretty well resolved anyway.

I haven't found a local parts store yet that sells halfway decent brake pads, even the super premium ones from Napa. Fade, fade, fade.

I buy brake pads online. I have a set of Akebono pads on the shelf of my garage that are going on next time. I was going to put them on the Bronco but my soon-to-be-ex-wife ended up with it.