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$300 to $400 is most times a core price. A person may be able to stick in a core engine and have it run, but chances are it will be in a similar mechanical condition to what is being replaced. A rebuilder in Spokane, WA sells rebuilt 292s for $1500. Forget what the shipping arrangement is. There was a member here that bought one of their rebuilds, and it sure would be nice if you could get a reference from him on the company, because $1500 is a hard to beat price.
$300 to $400 is most times a core price. A person may be able to stick in a core engine and have it run, but chances are it will be in a similar mechanical condition to what is being replaced. A rebuilder in Spokane, WA sells rebuilt 292s for $1500. Forget what the shipping arrangement is. There was a member here that bought one of their rebuilds, and it sure would be nice if you could get a reference from him on the company, because $1500 is a hard to beat price.
AMEN MIKE!
Core price=Junkyard engine, there is NO WAY I would install an engine into a truck that is going to have nice paint with out KNOWING the condition of the internal parts. Not to mention the 50 year old rear main that is going to start leaking in 500 miles! Or the fuel pump that has a dry rotted diaphram, Or the worn oil pump, or the distributor with so much play you cant set points correctly!
If you aint spending $2000, your going to be wrenching all the time putting on band-aids!
I agree with the $2k, but also know it is a lot of money for guys. Sure wish I could remember the member's name. The idea of mass rebuilds bothers me.
Today I pulled the '64 292. It is like new and was basically free. .030 OS. The reason I ended up with such a deal, 10K since rebuild, was because of two errors in the build. DS head gasket was on backwards, and the rebuilt starter had a bushing on the Bendix end that would go in and out of seat. So, the engine overheated and started erradically. The owner put on a new radiator not knowing the cause of overheating, and then simply didnt drive the truck but rarely due to ongoing problems.
So the moral might be "You get what you pay for, but sometimes not".
I have no problem installing a used but good engine in a truck. Did it many times. Just did it on my 79 f100 brother in laws truck and 302 was only 400 bucks.....no problems and much cheaper.
I don't blow money that way. I can see a rebuild if it is a numbers matching muscle car.
Funny .....2-3000 dollars will buy lots of 56 ford trucks.
I have no problem installing a used but good engine in a truck. Did it many times. Just did it on my 79 f100 brother in laws truck and 302 was only 400 bucks.....no problems and much cheaper.
I don't blow money that way. I can see a rebuild if it is a numbers matching muscle car.
Funny .....2-3000 dollars will buy lots of 56 ford trucks.
If a guy is looking for an inexpensive engine replacement, like one of your 300 to 400 dollar examples, what information is given? Cylinder pressures, bearing clearances? If not, and he takes it home finding too little of one and too much of the other, or a broken piston or bad cam and lifters etc., then is a refund in order? Again if not, the whole affair becomes an expensive junkyard experience.
The most I have paid for a core engine with no history was $225 for a 312. Usually 100-150. The 312's block ended up being thrown away, and what I thought were G heads turned out to be one G and one C. Without history and measurement information a buyer never knows what they are getting, which is a bad combo for motors that are 50 years old.
On the "good" .030 over 292 I referred to above, good is a relative term. In my mind meaning no block work being required. Still need to pull some bearing shells and check tolerances and see if all the lifters have been rotating. The heads could have been run as is but I have become a believer in the need for hardened seats, and there werent any. So they are being done.
I would not recommend anyone take a used Y without a history and analysis and just stick it back into any vehicle, unless they have a lot of extra time on their hands so it can be redone again prematurely.
If I'm buying a motor to drop straight into a truck, I better be able to hear it run. If I can't hear it run it better have good compression! I haven't messed with as many Y-blocks as most of you have, I would say half of mine have ran great and the rest had low compression, or tons of blow-by. I agree with the others, compression test, pull a valve cover. Otherwise your taking a gamble for $300-400.
You can check amazon, theres a guy on there selling some rebuilt longblock 292`s and I think 312`s.
I see the 56 292 which he has 2 of are selling at $1,890 then there are some 61 292`s selling for the same price he has 16 of those. They pretty much come ready to go with heads all that I see is missing is the front timing cover, water pump, dist, carb, intake manifold, lifter valley cover, and exhaust manifolds.
Also comes with a 7 year 70,000 mile warranty
Heres the product description which appears the same for all the 292`s he does.
"All our long blocks come with cylinder head(s) attached and valve train installed. Valve covers, timing cover, intake manifold and oil pan are not included. All long blocks have NEW valves, valve springs, valve keepers, push rods, rocker arms, fulcrums, lifters, camshaft, timing chain (belt), timing gears, valve guides (diamond honed), three angle seats, cam, rod and main bearings, pistons, piston rings, rod bushings (if applicable), gaskets and oil pump. All cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, crankshafts and connecting rods are cleaned and shot peened and magnafluxed for cracks. All bolt holes are tapped. Cylinder blocks are bored to each piston and diamond honed to 18RMS finish. All oil galleys are hand brushed with white cleaning brushes and cylinders are hand cleaned with cleaning solution and white towels. Cylinder heads have each valve guide diamond honed, seats are three angle. After assembly, heads are vacuum checked for valve seating. Crankshafts are ground and polished to 12RMS. Each oil galley is hand brushed with a white cleaning brush. All connecting rods are honed."
Holy Crap!!! Amazon..? That's the LAST place I would have thought of looking for a Y-Block, but sure enough someone has them listed. Wonder if they give you the free shipping offer, haha. Good pull Rusty S...
Holy Crap!!! Amazon..? That's the LAST place I would have thought of looking for a Y-Block, but sure enough someone has them listed. Wonder if they give you the free shipping offer, haha. Good pull Rusty S...
lol Same here I never thought to look but I was trying to track down one of those Y-block rebuilding books and when I typed in Y-block it brought that up.
I sell an engine as is. No warrantee. I am just selling what I do not want. In other words....I don't tear them down and never will.
I concentrate on the body. I also want to hear an engine run and I have and buy with that in mind.
It is like buying a fender and the buyer wants you to strip it down to see if it has epoxy primer under it. I don't do that either. Now if the price was 600 or more....I would know if it ran or not.
I sell an engine as is. No warrantee. I am just selling what I do not want. In other words....I don't tear them down and never will.
I concentrate on the body. I also want to hear an engine run and I have and buy with that in mind.
It is like buying a fender and the buyer wants you to strip it down to see if it has epoxy primer under it. I don't do that either. Now if the price was 600 or more....I would know if it ran or not.
Got to do your research when it comes to stuff like that. I am looking at a engine block kit to upgrade my daily driver to a more powerful engine. I am doing all the research I can on PAW and how good that californian based company is.
But if I was buying a complete engine I would expect to atleast hear it run if they want big bucks for it cause a engine can get very expensive to rebuild.
I have no problem installing a used but good engine in a truck. Did it many times. Just did it on my 79 f100 brother in laws truck and 302 was only 400 bucks.....no problems and much cheaper.
I don't blow money that way. I can see a rebuild if it is a numbers matching muscle car.
Funny .....2-3000 dollars will buy lots of 56 ford trucks.
I see over on the Y-blocksforever forum you inquired about shipping on the engine.Buy it and install your super charger on it!
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