what to do first
what to do first
i just picked up a f250 with a 7.3 idi but it has not been touched in 10 years. what should i look for, or what should i do first to get it going. or should i sell the parts off of it and RUN.
well the radiator is not a problem because it was stolen!!! the oil looks good. the truck was sold to a local car lot and the owner lets things go, he has several lots and he just lets things rot.
Defenentlly gonna need some return lines, O-rings and T's.
Fuel will need to be flushed out and put some fresh in with a heavy dose of Diesel Kleen or Diesel 911.
Check fuel pump if it's still putting out good pressure. You'll have to bleed the system to get fuel back up to the injectors.
And check what do the glow plugs look like and if there working and staying on for at least 10 seconds.
Fuel will need to be flushed out and put some fresh in with a heavy dose of Diesel Kleen or Diesel 911.
Check fuel pump if it's still putting out good pressure. You'll have to bleed the system to get fuel back up to the injectors.
And check what do the glow plugs look like and if there working and staying on for at least 10 seconds.
well i dont know about the return lines, o rings, and t's. i figure the fuel will be the big problem..
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If that thing set for 10 years, I'd change the oil and filter before trying to crank it over. I would also put an E8012S electric fuel pump ($41.99 @ Advance Auto Parts) on it at least temporary, if not permanently. It will save a lot of wear and tear on the starter, as well as a lot easier on the batteries. Oh my gosh, I almost forgot. DO NOT PUT IN A GP FROM THE PARTS BOOKS. They are NOT self regulating and will self destruct at the first hiccup in the system. If you must use a stock controller, go ahead and buy the BERUs like everyone tells you. They will burn out if the ‘designed by American built by Chinese’ controllers goes bad. My personal recommendation is install a manual button and use the AC 12Gs or Autolite 1109s. You will have to change the connector to a blade type. Crimp terminals should be readily available. They are temperature limiting and will not burn up no matter how heavy your finger gets. So it really depends on your ultimate goal. For the cost of the controller and GPs, I would go with temperature limiting and a button.

This video shows a GP heated for 3 minutes without failing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7Azfql5AEU
Last edited by Marianna2003; Feb 19, 2010 at 05:53 PM. Reason: Added GP comments
I'd see if it runs before doing any fluid change other than the fuel. At least check if theres enough oil and proceed.
Don't wanna waste any more money than you have to.
And yes believe me, you'll need return lines, O-rings and T's if you want that thing to run, but like the upbove said, hook up a electric fuel pump directlly to it so you won't have to replace any of that yet just to see if it runs, if it does, then it's worth it to change those things.
Don't wanna waste any more money than you have to.
And yes believe me, you'll need return lines, O-rings and T's if you want that thing to run, but like the upbove said, hook up a electric fuel pump directlly to it so you won't have to replace any of that yet just to see if it runs, if it does, then it's worth it to change those things.
It will need return lines to use, but will crank allright before you start spending money.
If you have an electric pump use it, if not you can use a five gallon can set on the cab or anything above the engine, all it will cost you is a few feet of 3/8 fuel line and a clamp.
If you have an electric pump use it, if not you can use a five gallon can set on the cab or anything above the engine, all it will cost you is a few feet of 3/8 fuel line and a clamp.







