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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Talyn
uhm, the truck cranking while hooking up the negatives means you hooked a battery up backwards from what it sounds like to me, or that something else is wrong....

The truck shouldn't crank at all unless the key is on, or your jumping the solenoid. You physically have to make that loop for the power, and usually it wont even do it unless the key is turned.

You should check make sure your batteries are hooked up right.
but it sounds like you need new ignition, not a new solenoid.

Remember, 20something keys and 400 keychains do not make for a good set of keys in the ignition.
i double and triple checked, batteries have been in correctly. i may have done the order wrong when i reconnected, though, idk. i do driver-pass positive, then negatives.

she is starting great and driving fine now...i wonder if my mistake wasn't in holding the key too long in the morning.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 01:20 PM
  #17  
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Key off and everything off when hooking up batteries.
negatives first.

Unless its a Hudson, then positives first.
Some older cars had power as ground,which in technicality when i've talked to old engineers, they say thats the way things should be. *shrugs*
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 01:30 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Talyn
Key off and everything off when hooking up batteries.
negatives first.

Unless its a Hudson, then positives first.
Some older cars had power as ground,which in technicality when i've talked to old engineers, they say thats the way things should be. *shrugs*
Hmmmm, William, is that the way Henry Ford did it on his first cars?

Rog
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #19  
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Yes. I believe that most of the first cars that came out were that way as well Rog.

I'm not sure why they changed it. I know for a while that cars were every which way, but only a few like hudson never switched to the standard.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 02:07 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Talyn
Yes. I believe that most of the first cars that came out were that way as well Rog.

I'm not sure why they changed it. I know for a while that cars were every which way, but only a few like hudson never switched to the standard.
GOTCHA William:
Henry Ford didn't have batteries in his first cars!

Rog
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 02:12 PM
  #21  
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thanks rog.

but, technically no.

You didn't specify a model.
So by that, we can safely say the first cars with batteries. =)
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 08:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MissIndependent
i would like to replace the terminals at least and the cables when i can too...there is corrosion i can't tell how far down the cable it goes. the parts i can reach are sparkling clean and coated in red goop to keep em that way
I had to put a new positive bacle on my fathers 00 F250 and the dealer wanted 250 bucks for it. So I made my own from some welding cable. Pm me if you want one made.

Originally Posted by MissIndependent
i double and triple checked, batteries have been in correctly. i may have done the order wrong when i reconnected, though, idk. i do driver-pass positive, then negatives.

she is starting great and driving fine now...i wonder if my mistake wasn't in holding the key too long in the morning.
What do u mean?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 06:30 AM
  #23  
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If the truck sat for a bit, and you're really not sure on the battery condition, I say new batteries, or at least a good charge will fix the issue. Appearantly just driving it charged them up enough so that it started up good the next day.

I've run in to this many times. If the batteries don't have enough juice in them, they won't STOP the starter, it'll keep cranking over till you disconnect something. I think all the available juice goes to the starter and there's nothing left to pull the bendix off the flywheel, or something like that. And if you don't do it quick, you'll fry the starter and or one of the solenoids. Been there...
I confirmed it with several mechanics I know.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:34 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DZL JIM
If the truck sat for a bit, and you're really not sure on the battery condition, I say new batteries, or at least a good charge will fix the issue. Appearantly just driving it charged them up enough so that it started up good the next day.

I've run in to this many times. If the batteries don't have enough juice in them, they won't STOP the starter, it'll keep cranking over till you disconnect something. I think all the available juice goes to the starter and there's nothing left to pull the bendix off the flywheel, or something like that. And if you don't do it quick, you'll fry the starter and or one of the solenoids. Been there...
I confirmed it with several mechanics I know.
She put new batteries in it jim.....
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 05:23 PM
  #25  
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Ah, didn't catch that part.
Guess the new Batts solved the issue.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #26  
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she likes her new batteries and we almost got to play 4wd getting hay and water out to my horses this afternoon. ugh...i am so over winter. and then i had to call emergency vet for one of my horses. *sigh*

anyhow, doug- i meant when she didn't fire up promptly i wish i had turned the key off a little bit sooner and then tried again.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 06:34 PM
  #27  
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today it's the brake master cylinder... *sigh* and the tekonsha p3 shorted out again. think i'll be looking for a new controller (i.e. different type/brand). this is the second one in less than a year
 
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