Hi all. Maybe I should have thought of this earlier. Birds of a feather and all. Well, anyway, I finally thought of it so here I am and hopefully someone has seen this and knows what is going on. I have a 1993 F350 crew cab 4X4 with the 5.8L V8. I have had it stored for quite some time and although this may be a factor, I remember this happening now and then before I stored it. About a month ago, I decided it is finally time to sell it as I no longer have the need for a big truck. My Ranger 4x4 handles everything I need these days. So I washed the old beast, put in a new battery (actually a three year old good battery from my T Bird which got a new battery out of the deal), replaced the brake master cylinder and bled the brakes ( pedal got mushy - I hear that happens when they sit too long the seals in the master cylinder don't seal so well) and she was ready to go. I drove her around for a while until I was confident she was good to go, then I drove her the 4 hour trip to my mountain place where I figure a 4x4 behemoth would sell. Everything was going pretty good for several days. Took it on a few test drives with prospects and she ran real good. Then one day I went to crank her and she wouldn't start. Cranks strong but no spark (I confirmed this.) I remembered I had this happen every now and then before I stored her and I remembered the work around was to remove the SPOUT connector. Sure enough, I removed the SPOUT connector, and she fires right up. I put the SPOUT connector back in after she starts and she drives fine. Unlike before, this is now a constant condition. I cannot start it with the SPOUT in. I have looked on the net through GOOGLE and have found numerous stories similiar, but none like mine wherein once it starts, it runs fine with the SPOUT back in. I have tried a new computer after I went through a test procedure I got from a technician that ended up telling me to suspect the EEC. After that, I obtained an 11 volt + reading on the SPOUT wire from the EEC on a bump test and figured it must be the ICM so I put in a new ignition control module and it too made no difference. The distributor was replaced 6 years ago which was just 3000 miles ago and it delivers a good PIP signal based on the bump test. The same test sheet that told me the EEC was suspect also ruled out the possibility of a short between the ICM and the EEC along the SPOUT wire. I found a video online in which the EEC module was not getting adequate power so it was fixed with a new wire from the solenoid to the relay. He was getting low voltage readings on his throttle position sensor reference voltage though which showed his problem. I took a reference reading of 4.99 volts off my MAP sensor which shows my EEC module is getting good power. I am totally perplexed at this point. Has anybody ever seen anything like this and actually found out the cause?