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On my 1995 F-150 with the 302 and 4r70w tranny, I was in the process of removing the engine to put some gaskets in it and when I went to take the nuts off the studs on the torque converter one of them wouldn't ever loosen up. It would turn but it would turn very hard. Upon closer inspection i noticed the the stud wasn't attached to the converter anymore. I can't really tell if I broke it loose or if it was already broken.
So my question is what should i do about it? Just leave it in the flywheel for balance purposes and hope that the other three will hold it, or is there someway to reattach it. I can't really tell how they are attached, they are not welded on, it almost looks like they were glued on with some sort of molten metal or something. I noticed while helping a friend put in a transmission in a chevy that it only used three studs anyway.
by your description it sounds like they were brazed on, kinda a high temp solder (I'm not sure as I have only worked on my 4sp / 302 combo) .. but you could try throwing a flame at it and see if melts .. may take a bit more than a regular propane torch, but you don't wanna get it red hot or even close as it may warp the fly wheel ..
also, think about calling a machine shop .. they may have better insight as to how to fix you problem ..
would not suggest running it with only 3 bolts. The chevy works with 3 because it is designed to use 3, they bolts are spaced accordingly. I would suspect that only only 3 bolts on a ford would result in a cracked flexplate, possibly worse. Advance auto list a new converter for about $100, may be something to look into.
I had one pop off before, after pulling the engine(tranny/TC still in truck), I just put the offending stud back in place on the TC and zaped it with a MIG welder. Took care of it and had no issues since. Just make sure you ground the MIG DIRECTLY on the TC or bad things will happen!
No vibs at all, I just put enough on to hold the stud in place. I did attach the MIG ground to a stud close to the area and did quick zaps and alow area to cool off for no warpage and over heating to occur.
I had thought about a new or re manufactured one but that is at least another $150. I know that it would be best to do that but if I can get away with welding I might try it.
If it were me, I think I would go with a new or reconditioned converter, if it could be welded quick enough to not burn the oil inside it might work.. But myself, I would be worried about cooking the oil and making chunks of crud that might stop up a passage somewhere, or warping the converter housing enough to cause it to fly apart out on the road somewhere...
But I have been accused of going overboard before...... But it is something to think about..
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