Brake bleeding problem Ex
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 62
Likes: 2
We'll I finally got the brakes blead out. I decided not to use scanner method and go with the clear tube in the contianer of fluid method.It worked flawlessly and all the air came right out!! It's nice having a good pedal on the first shot again! Thanks guys!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 155
From: Milwaukee, WI
Agreed! A Mighty Vac is a handy tool for bleeding brakes as one person. Glad the OP got the solution!
New User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Motive bleeder is my tool of choice, refresh brake fluid without the hassle. even if used occasionally it is worth the expense (clean it when storing and bag all hoses/fittings when stored, see manual)
When pedal bleeding be sure to use the method describe (clear hose in bottem of fluid in catch reservoir at caliper) but most important if the pedal person pumps/releases the pedal with bleeder open instead of air the brake fluid in the resevoir is drawn into calipers
When pedal bleeding be sure to use the method describe (clear hose in bottem of fluid in catch reservoir at caliper) but most important if the pedal person pumps/releases the pedal with bleeder open instead of air the brake fluid in the resevoir is drawn into calipers
New User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Not entirely correct.
On vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes, "This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU."
That's straight from the Ford factory technician database website.
And regular brake bleeding procedures won't hurt the ABS pump because the proper procedure is to bleed the system first, then connect the tool via the OBD II port, then repeat the system bleed.
Here are the directions from the Ford website:
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Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
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As you can see, no mention of a damaged ABS pump is mentioned if a procedure isn't followed while bleeding the system. It's not addressed because it's safe to do so.
So unless a person has replaced their Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), which the OP didn't do, or the HCU has malfunctioned or is damaged somehow, allowing air to enter the system, activating the ABS system to bleed it is unnecessary.
Stewart
On vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes, "This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU."
That's straight from the Ford factory technician database website.
And regular brake bleeding procedures won't hurt the ABS pump because the proper procedure is to bleed the system first, then connect the tool via the OBD II port, then repeat the system bleed.
Here are the directions from the Ford website:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
- Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap, and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.
- Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.
- With the RH rear bleeder screw open, cycle the brake pedal until no more air is seen in the waste line.
- Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.
- Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.
- Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash, and follow the scan tool instructions.
- Repeat the system bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.
- NOTE: It is not necessary to do a complete brake system bleed if only the disc brake caliper was disconnected.
Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As you can see, no mention of a damaged ABS pump is mentioned if a procedure isn't followed while bleeding the system. It's not addressed because it's safe to do so.
So unless a person has replaced their Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), which the OP didn't do, or the HCU has malfunctioned or is damaged somehow, allowing air to enter the system, activating the ABS system to bleed it is unnecessary.
Stewart
JUST WANTED TO ASK. I HAVE A 2001 EXCURSION 4X4 PSD AND I JUST REPLACED THE MASTER CYLINDER AND HYDRABOOST. UNFORTUNATELY, I DIDN'T BENCH BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER FIRST BECAUSE I WAS GOING TO FLUSH THE WHOLE SYSTEM ANYWAYS AND I WAS JUST GOING TO BLEED ALL OF THE 4 WHEELS ANYWAYS. HOWEVER, NOW WHEN I PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE PEDAL GOES ALL THE WAY DOWN WITHOUT ANY RESISTANCE REALLY. DO YOU THINK IT'S JUST A BLEEDING PROBLEM NOW? OR DO YOU THINK IT IS THE HCU FROM THE BIGINNING? ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANKS
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