When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I hadn't driven my 87 2x4 250 in a while......fired it up the other day...warmed it up good......put her in reverse......went to back it away from the garage door and it wouldn't move....it would torque over when I gave it fuel but wouldn't budge.....I finally gave it enough that one wheel started to spin a little on the grass.....truck came w/ a limited slip....right rear will not budge....I tried it when it was above freezing...pushed the emergency brake and released it several times....what can I do to get it freed....if the shoes are holding it that tight I think removing the wheel and trying to beat the drum off would be near impossible or ruin the drum....is there a wheel cylinder I can/should release fluid from?...A friend said I need to crawl underneath and beat the back plate w/ a big hammer???.....I've heard of Ford Tools but tell me he's kidding or doesn't know what he's talking about.....help,stuck without snow!
Do you always set the parking brake? If so it may have gotten stuck in the liner. You could try yanking the cable back eith a pair of visegrips. If that doesn't do it try turning the adjuster all the way in and opening the bleeder valve to ge tall the pressure off the shoes. Then try to remove the drum tapping and applying some leverage to the edge by the backer plate. Becareful not to pry to hard or you will chip or crack the drum.
i had that happen on my 67 mustang after sitting to long i hooked a strap to the car and pulled it slowley till they broke free then i jacked it up and spun the wheels by hand rust came out from moister getting in
A parking Break is more trouble then its worth all around, if its not screwing you frozen... Its wharping your drums from the constant pressure shut it off stick it in gear done....My opinions and comments expressed in this post and all others hereafter are strictly as a result of my personal experiance with a public buissness and in no way are meant to flame, bash, insult or IRRITATE anyone beith man, woman or child in any way
i dont reckon it would warp the drum. If the shoes are stuck to the drum, then it might do some good to pull the wheel off and give it a few good wacks with the good ole BFH.
I bought 79 F150 once that i had to shatter the rear drum on the drivers side to get to the brakes. The I guy I bought it from had let it sit for 10 years and it was a solid piece of rust. Back then tho brakes and drums didn't cost much, these days I might try a little harder to save the drum lol.
There should be enough room from the back to spray wd 40 or pblaster into the inside of the drum. After it soaks for a few tap the backside with a hammer a few times to break it free. Worked on my 75 a few years back...
If the ice is inside the drum it can be a pain, but a hammer usually works. We need to check with joe for the right size though. This is real common with big trucks when running through snow or any moisture.
I'd say it's likely what kenpobuck said, the e brake cable is stuck in the housing. My right side cable likes to stick and when it does, it sticks hard. I've been spraying it pb blaster for a couple years so usually a quick yank on the right side housing release's the brake.
Sometimes when getting the emissions done the guy will stomp on the e brake and then come tell me the truck won't move. You can "make" it move with enough throttle but it's amazing how hard one brake will hold.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.