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There should be enough room from the back to spray wd 40 or pblaster into the inside of the drum. After it soaks for a few tap the backside with a hammer a few times to break it free. Worked on my 75 a few years back...
umm.. this is NOT a good idea. NEVER spray ANY kind of lubricant onto the drum/shoe
I would go a totaly different direction.. Rust/ice hates heat I would pull the tire off and hit it lightly with a O/A torch with a prybar between lug studs. Heat and pry lightly until it moves, just seems to me that it would be a little less abusive to everything than beating the snot out of it..
umm.. this is NOT a good idea. NEVER spray ANY kind of lubricant onto the drum/shoe
I disagree, depending on what you are trying to accomplish....
If its just frozen on, like from cold weather, or you've recently driven it, lube would be a bad idea.
But if its been sitting a long time, and you figure on rebuilding the brakes anyways... spray whatever in there, since you'd have to redo it all anyways...
On the other hand, I drove my truck this summer for a couple weeks with a leaking wheel cylinder, and a leaking hub seal, had to be careful when braking, but it still stopped with basically just the front brakes working. However, I DON"T RECOMMEND THIS!
I'm lost....I hooked my other truck up to it and tugged/rocked it about 10 feet back....watched the tire in my rearview....swear it looked like it was moving back and forth a very little bit....temp was up to mid 50's....grass it was on was dry.....yes, it was in neutral......parking brake was double checked....was not set to begin with.....no hills here for miles and miles and miles.....talk about flat!......I can't imagine reducing the adjuster is just going to free it up and I can't imagine I'll be able to get the drum off if it's that tight....CRAP!......should I hit it w/ hammer on the backing plate....hit it hard.....????......I knew I bought that new torch for some reason!...................possible the brake cylinder is screwed up?....should I crack the line and let fluid out.....or just beat on the backing plate?.......
Loosening the adjuster up can't hurt and may take care of the problem.
Are both ends of the E brake cables about even?
Could easily be a stuck cable compounding the problem, but you will probably have to get the drun off to do anything about it.
50 degrees rules out ice, you may have something coming apart and binding up, at the very least it sounds like the drum is going to have to come off, that may be a pain. lol
right rear will not budge....I tried it when it was above freezing...pushed the emergency brake and released it several times
rusted to the drum???......I drove it and parked it there about 3 weeks ago.....that's what throws me.......??????
These 2 parts of your posts say that it was fine when you parked only 3 weeks earlier. Unless a brake lining fell off while it was sitting and bound up the drum, it just about has to be a stuck emergency brake cable. If the rubber brake hose collapsed, it would eventually bleed off and release the brake but it's been stuck for quite a while.
Maybe at first the tires were in a hole or with the cold just not moving well but for whatever reason, you stepped on the e brake and the right side is locked up now but moved freely when you parked.
More than likely, it's a crusty E-Brake cable. Release the E-brake then grab the cable back by the rear of the truck on the offending side. Jiggle the crap out of it. You should be able to see if it moves, at the front end of the cable.
I'll try to work the cable......what is wierd is that as I said....everything is flat here ....I NEVER use the e-brake, so when it was parked I just drove up put my foot on the brake pedal, came to a stop put the column shift in park and turned the truck off......when I ran it last trying to move it, I was able to give it enough fuel that caused the driver side rear wheel to spin.....that passenger rear is locked slam up.........what kind of rearend should I have in an 87....10.25 Sterling w/ 3.?? gear....I'm 90 % sure it's not a 4.10......it has a factory limited slip that makes a clacking sound when I take a right turn....was told thats the limited slip plates sliding by each other.....I have a larger Sterling that came from a cab and chassis I'd have to relocate the spring perches slightly...wonder if the axel to axel is the same?
Take some good measurements I don't think you can use the cab and chassis axle even with moveing the perches. I know you cant and still use the dual wheels on a 70s era two wheel drive.
If you have not applied the ebrake and ice is ruled out, I'm not going with rust in just a couple weeks, and no the linings or anything would have fallen off while it was parked but it is possible something came apart before you parked and locked it up after it cooled it is possible it is a wheel bearing or even in the pumpkin.
I hate to think that but it may make sense.....I've had her 2 years and put new brakes on the whole way round fust after I bought her.....I'm going to jack her up and see if the drum comes off.....there was no noise or sounds when trying to move her.......if I could find a stock rearend w/ same gear and limited slip.....LOL!....maybe I should sell her w/ the three sets of Motorcraft glow plugs I bought at a buck a piece!....that I've yet to put the first in because she starts so easy!.....
I bet you could double your money on the plugs pretty easy. lol
I would jack it up first and see whats going on it is better to expect the worst and be relived than to expect it to need a pop with a hammer and need a rearend rebuild. lol