In the simplest terms, the 6.4 lit lower end engine is weak. The weak point is the connecting rods. Failures can and will happen and it shouldn't cost you a short block for a simple EGR cooler or injector failure. Any excessive amount of fluid in a cylinder that can cause a hydro-lock will cause catastrophic failure of the connecting rods. The snap cap rods bend very easily from hydro-locking and in the worst case will turn the block into windows! EGR cooler failures and leaking injectors will cause this type of failure. Speaking of EGR coolers, I can’t understand why they would design an EGR cooler that mounts to an exhaust manifold with temps achieving 800 degrees and more, that's just asking for problems. Then there is the fuel system inside the engine. Isn't that like a Diesel engineering 101 mistake? Compare this to a 6.0lit. I have had so many 6.0 lit with coolant hydro-locking and not once had a connecting rod failure. I've had starters break when cranking into a hydro-lock, and that’s the worst case! Vent the coolant, repair the problem and you’re on the road again with minimal damage!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

I understand the frustration of the TSB and it goes against everything they taught us to do. This is Fords was of trying to save money and I can understand that point of view too. This way they eliminate the 3 hours of diagnosis and debris tests, not to mention they argument of overlapping time they end up having to pay if you have a good warranty administrator. Actually I feel it’s alright. For replacing just the H/P, I can have it done in about 5 hours so I can still make the time. For this I would just remove the transmission. I can have the cab off in about an hour and a half, but it’s just easier to remove the Trans. They may mandate the cab removal for this, but the way I look at it is that as long as the job is done right, it shouldn't matter how you perform the job. For example, remember the head gasket of the Windstar’s, I could replace the head gaskets faster by dropping the engine out on the cradle and raising the body and that was never in any procedure. If you have management that understands this, you shouldn’t have a problem. As for the cage nuts, I do use flame, from a torch if my propane tip is empty. I also have a salvaged wrench I bent for the front cage nuts and on the cab I will just spend a minute to pull up the carpet and use a socket. Most of the time with heat; I never have a problem anymore.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

Interesting take away here...if I understand you correctly. You remove the tranny to get to the HPFP?

 

That is correct. If I'm replacing just the high pressure fuel pump, I only remove the transmission.

 

Great tip for those of us that will eventually be out of warranty!

 

ok so I guess Im gonna chime in here. first off thanks for posting a video for the folks. Im one of the few that never lift cabs at all.
I have treied a number of differnet ways to remove cage nuts. I found the flame wrench is not the best awnser. also have tried a cut up wrench made to fit in the hole. didnt like that to much. there was someone that converted a pipe threader to do this and it was reported that worked great.
I tried a butain torch as per one of the tsb's that suks too. The best method I have found to date is using a propain torch from the top side. the temp seems to soften it up the loctite were a oxy set up melts it and it runs to the bottom of the bolt were it casues it to lock up and still spin the cage nut. my .02
so far as it taking you 28 hours to do... well spend less time filming. so far as getting only 25hours to do the job.. your missing labor ops.
as far as pulling a cab or a trans or a turbo for that matter to do the job is both time consuming and unneccary. there are much faster ways to do it and the repairs are just as effective. I have snet the last 5 years working in a fleet heavy shop and it seems like evey truck has a bucket and a pto. its a no-win deal that forced me to find a better and faster way. Its now down to a under 10 hour job that pays very very well. just a pump I can have done before I go off to eat luch.
so far as tsb 11-04-22 goes well...
1) I can beat the time.
2) be been down this road. you will see pump failers from metal contamination and a need to spw pumps before they leave the shop. been down this road but will glady do it again . not my money Im spending.
3) there are ways around using almost any tsb. just look at dtc chart in section 4 and figure that one out.

 

Glad you chimed in Cheezit! The repair in my video was my first in 2008 and it did take me 28 hours to complete. I was only flagged for the 25 hours and you are right! I could have been flagged more time but wasn’t. At that time, my dealer was under review for driveline and I guess they were paranoid. But that’s only one of the reasons I’m no longer in dealerships. The worst part is the fact that I was tired of being shorted time. 1- For having less time in the repair than being flagged 2- being shorted time again and again, it’s tough to keep taking the loss of pay when you fix it right the first time. It’s great to figure out ways to become faster and when you don’t get compensated it makes you wonder if it’s worth it! 3- Last I got tired of repairs being turned into warranty when it’s clearly caused by lack of maintenance, or turn into an extended warranty once they get the cost of the repair. As for my recording my repairs, I appreciate your opinion. It does take a lot of time to set a camera on a bench and push a button, lol. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

Cool video. Thanks OP.

 

dealer life is not for all of us... thats for sure. I have had my thoughts of going indy but I refuse to go with out medical insurance, and few of the indy shops pay what I get at the dealer level..
Anyway the first one I did took about the same, if not more.
if you get another send me a pm and Ill give you the walk threw..