Ok now I have done some research and have the correct name for stuff I have a few questions. The last time I looked under the truck (99 F150 4x4) I noticed the pass side inner CV boot was completely seperated in 2 and I could see the shaft and inside the housing. Driver side one has a small hole also. I tried doing a search here but CV isnt enough characters and boot and boots didnt seem to get me anything. What all is involved in replacing these? Any guides anyone has posted about before? Special tools? Appreciate any advice there.

While I am at it I am wondering if I should be doing my ball joints also. I inspected them and though I am no expert from what I can tell there was no ball-joint induced play in the wheels. It does have 150,000mi and since 100k the torsion bars have been cranked up about 1.5" over stock.

The only play was the passanger side tire would turn in and out slightly, and I traced that to the drag link flexing up and down, which I traced to the idler arm allowing the up and down movement slightly. I'm guessing thats going to need replaced as well, any special tools there? Doesnt look much to it I hope I can figure that one out myself.

Allong with these fixes is there anything else I should be replacing/inspecting/etc on the front end? I really dont want to replace too much just because I am in there, since I'll probably be selling the truck soon but not sure. But definatly need to fix the actual problems.

 

IMO, you'll come out better just buying reman half-shafts. Last time I checked boots were $25.00+/- each and the joints are a PITA to take apart and put back together. The side you have split open is bound to be full of dirt/grit and probably damaged. Axles are, what, $60-$75 each? Makes the job much easier to just swap out the shafts and motor on trouble free.



Oh, whichever way you go be sure to unbolt the shaft from the differential BEFORE disconnecting the top ball joint. If you drop the spindle out before unbolting the axle the CV joint will come apart and it's really hard to get it out of it's position. In the photo you'll see that I learned the hard way.

 

I agree once the boot is ripped you'll end up with water and grit in the joint, your better off to replace it

 

Agreed I just checked the price here at the local napa and plan on replacing the whole thing. From the pic above it looks like its following the procedure to change the ball joints, is there anything else to it other than to unbolt the cv joint and do all the stuff up to popping the ball joints out? Napa wanted quite a bit for the upper ball joints so I dont think I will do those if they seem alright when I check them again, is it worth it to change the lower one just because I am taking them out anyway?

Anything special I need to know about the idler arm? Torque specs or anything?

 

You don't take the bottom ones out just the top, then roll it back on the lowers. 1st loosen the big outer nut, smack it good and hard once and hopefully it moves. Then remove the 6 or 8 bolts on the inner axle. Now separate the upper ball joint. Be sure to support your caliper!

 

Keep in mind, not all CV shafts are created equal. After I bought my rebuilt shafts ($99 ea), I found out that many rebuilts only have 3 roller bearings vs. 5 on the factory part. They work OK, but definitely aren't as smooth as the originals in tight turns.

 

I've heard that but not seen it.

 

I never actually opened up the CV joint, but I noticed a difference the first time I test drove the truck after the swap.

 

I'll have to look but the torque specs for the idler arm may be in my haynes manual. IMO you can go very tight but no your limits to where you're not stripping nuts and bolts. Probably not the best advice but I haven't had problems with mine since I replaced it well over a year ago. The idler arm is relatively easy to replace. I found it easier to remove the skid plate if yours has one to gain access to the idler arm. Two bolts and a nut pop the new one in and tighten it down and you're ready to go.

 

Ok sounds good, didnt look to difficult. Wasnt sure how its connected to the drag link if it would need something special to remove. No skid plate there, so shouldnt be a problem.

My parts should be in today, providing the roads are still open lol!

Anything else I might need? Do I need a gasket or something where the CV joint bolts in or maybe thats included. Do I need to change the front diff fluid or are the cv joints sealed off from that?

 

i tapped my idler arm when i replaced it a couple of times with a hammer and it came off the drag link.

don't know anything about the cv joints but you will know when you go to disconnect the cv shaft and see a seal or gasket of some sort.

 

No Gasket. There are flanged stubs that come out of the front differential and the half shaft just bolts to them.

http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx...t--Part-1.html

 

Ahh thanks for that link... that guy does it without removing the ball joints at all that sounds better to me! One thing is curious, on that link they say 35mm for the axle nut but on the ball joint post on fte https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html it says 36mm or 1 3/8. Probably doesnt make much a difference, I got to get one anyhow. Thought my set went that big but biggest socket I have is 1 1/4 anyway. So looks like I'm not going to be able to do this work for a few days till I get that bigger socket.

 

Yeah, I see he didn't remove the upper joint but he removed the caliper & mount, sway bar links, backing plate and rotor. One nut and a good solid whack on the spindle with a BFH and the joint is loose and you have a lot more working room. Either way .......